Two months in the Great Basin

Hello, everyone! I’m checking in for the first time from Carson City, Nevada. I moved here at the end of June to become a botany intern with the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) only 2 months ago, but I already feel at home. This is a pleasant surprise, considering how different Carson City is than the town I just moved from. It’s amazing how drastically the landscape shifts during the 4-hour drive east from home to here. Ferns and redwoods fade to sagebrush and juniper; ocean breezes dry out and are tinged by smoke. Among the differences, though, there is a familiarity between plants of the desert and of dunes at the coast. A reprieve from the newness of the Great Basin that lies east of the Sierras.

A species of Astragalus that looks a little like the plant we searched for in the Pine Nut Mountains.

A species of Astragalus that looks a little like the plant we searched for in the Pine Nut Mountains.

In any case, I like it here. The town, which is the capital of Nevada, is calm and simple. The sagebrush steppe is parched by sun and heat, but is a perfect array of pastels. The mountains stacked to our west (the eastern edge of the Sierra Nevada’s) are mostly brown, but the pines lining their peaks promise an escape from the sun. We often work in shrubby sage and rabbit brush communities, but sometimes diverge toward these cooler mountains west of the BLM office. I love sagebrush, and the bright red cicadas that shoot out of its branches when you approach too quickly, but I really enjoy our time working in pine-covered mountains.

I first experienced these mountains in my second week of work. We drove to the Pine Nut Mountains and surveyed about 400 acres for a tiny, yet vibrant, rare plant in the genus Astragalus. Ecologists were worried about the fate of this community. They feared that the mixed sage, pine nut tree, and juniper habitat was being dominated by juniper and pine nut trees. Long ago, mild fires frequently passed through and killed tree seedlings growing among sagebrush. The larger juniper and pine nut trees tolerated these small fires well, and a balance between sage and tree-dominated communities was preserved.

Two wild horses silhouetted in the Pine Nut Mountains

Two wild horses silhouetted in the Pine Nut Mountains

But more recently, humans have taken steps to prevent even the smallest burn. Without the thinning capability of fire, trees grow among the sagebrush and gradually replace sage communities. To prevent this encroachment without fire, ecologists hoped to use a large machine to “masticate” the offending trees and give the sagebrush communities a chance to thrive. First, they wanted our help to make sure their plan would not hurt any rare plants that may have been living among the offending trees.

We spent two days combing the hilly pine nut tree understory for the small plant. We found none. During our first night of camping, though, I found a different species iconic to the area. I took a short walk down the dusty two-track we drove in on to enjoy the evening breeze. The dust seeped into my tennis shoes and between my toes as I scuffed along. Turning a corner, I heard a snort. Squinting ahead through the sunset, I saw a fair-haired stallion standing, offended, between me and his chestnut mare only 20 meters away. I dropped to a crouch behind a sagebrush, afraid to startle them more and make him charge, and listened. To be honest, I should have left as soon as I saw them. Wild horses are dangerous, and deserve to be left alone. I knew, and ignored, this fact. I stayed in a crouch, separated the sage with my fingertips, and watched until the stallion reluctantly returned to grazing. He still stood between me and his mare, still occasionally snorted, and still perked his ears in my direction.

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Collecting Elymus elymoides, squirrel tail grass

As I crept away to have my own dinner, I considered the difference between this new state and my previous home. The wilderness here is an expanse of sage, pines, wild horses, and predators that wild horses have to be cautious of. It dwarfs the presence of occasional shooters, ATV riders, and BLM botany interns who pass through. I don’t know why I’m so surprised by its vastness; the BLM public lands cover over 60% of the state of Nevada.

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A sedge (Carex sp.) collected near Indian Creek

Over the following few weeks, we collected seeds and searched for native plants in the far corners of this territory. I still haven’t become accustomed to the hugeness of BLM land. Though our efforts sometimes seem unfruitful (like not finding the rare Astragalus in the Pine Nut’s), I have been impressed by the BLM’s strength in protecting both the ecological and cultural resources of such a massive area. For example, officials recently stopped the proposed project in the Pine Nut’s. Not because we found Astragalus (which we didn’t) but because the pine nuts themselves are an important source of income for local folks. It feels meaningful to be a part of this group of dedicated people.

Thanks for reading. Until next time!

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Mountain mahogany, Cercocarpus ledifolius, in the White Mountains

Good Times Ensue

I have written all about the work that takes place here at the Shoshone Field Office, so I thought I would go into a few details about some of the amazing adventures I’ve been fortunate enough to have while living in Idaho!

Within the beautiful state of Idaho itself I’ve experienced several miles of trails throughout the Sawtooth, Boise and Salmon-Challis National Forests. I’ve biked the 25-mile Boise River Greenbelt, which is a rail trail running through the city and extends outside of the city both ways. I’ve kayaked the Snake River in Twin Falls to beach caves, waterfalls and underwater lava tubes. I’ve gazed upon dozens of breathtaking waterfalls all throughout the state and I have big plans to bike the 71 miles of paved path from high mountain splendor, through the historic Silver Valley into the chain lakes region, along the shore of Lake Coeur d’Alene, over the Chatcolet Bridge to Heyburn State Park, and finally climbing to the Palouse prairie in the Idaho Panhandle sometime soon!

Alpine Lake in the Sawtooth National Forest

Alpine Lake in the Sawtooth National Forest

Biking the Boise River Greenbelt rail trail

Biking the Boise River Greenbelt rail trail

The Boise river off of the Boise River Greenbelt rail trail

The Boise river off of the Boise River Greenbelt rail trail

Kayaking the Snake River to beach caves, underwater lava tubes, and waterfalls!

Kayaking the Snake River to beach caves, underwater lava tubes, and waterfalls!

Inside one of the beach caves on the Snake River during my kayaking trip.

Inside one of the beach caves on the Snake River during my kayaking trip.

Can you find me? Taking in Shoshone Falls in Twin Falls, Idaho

Can you find me? Taking in Shoshone Falls in Twin Falls, Idaho

Mt. Borah! The tallest peak in Idaho at 12,662 ft. I gave the peak my best effort but I chickened out at the notorious "Chicken-out Ridge" one thousand feet from the summit

Mt. Borah! The tallest peak in Idaho at 12,662 ft. I gave the peak my best effort but I chickened out at the notorious “Chicken-out Ridge” one thousand feet from the summit

Outside of Idaho I have been lucky enough to see some pretty incredible sights. One of my favorites has been Glacier National Park! From panoramic views to frolicking wildlife, it is easily one of my favorite places in the world. I’ve visited the park two times and have put in over 50 miles of hiking. I have also biked a portion of the infamous “Going to the Sun Road.”  I have seen more bears than I ever have in my life (an adult grizzly bear, a grizzly bear cub, and a brown bear), four moose (one of them a baby!), two ptarmigan, several mountain goats (I even witnessed a male-to-male fight!), and one billion deer! The surrounding areas around Glacier National Park, including Flathead Lake and National Forest, Swan Valley, and several other lakes are all equally breathtaking. Montana took a small part of my heart.

The rocks at Glacier National Park are so rich in color!

The rocks at Glacier National Park are so rich in color!

The views on the Highline trail at Glacier National Park are unlike any I've ever seen.

The views on the Highline trail at Glacier National Park are unlike any I’ve ever seen.

Wild Goose Island at Glacier National Park!

Wild Goose Island at Glacier National Park!

Beautiful Iceberg Lake (minus the icebergs, I was too late in the season).

Beautiful Iceberg Lake (minus the icebergs, I was too late in the season).

Little grizzly bear cub!

Little grizzly bear cub!

Mother moose and her baby!

Mother moose and her baby!

Just recently I took a short trip to visit my sister, who lives on Whidbey Island in Washington. Along the way I stopped to visit the beautiful Columbia Gorge, which is jaw-dropping in its beauty with waterfalls and winding rivers every which way you look. I also had the great pleasure to hike through the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest to the Talapus and Olallie Lakes. Upon visiting my sister, we made a short day trip adventure to Olympic National Park, where the green forest was so vibrant it almost hurt your eyes. My sister and I spent a lot of time seeing the surrounding sights on Whidbey Island, hiking near the ocean, and playing with her hyperactive Boston Terrier!

Wahclella Falls in the Columbia Gorge

Wahclella Falls in the Columbia Gorge

Relaxing at Talapus Lake in the Mt.Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest

Relaxing at Talapus Lake in the Mt.Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest

The sister and I at Sol Duc Falls in Olympic National Park!

The sister and I at Sol Duc Falls in Olympic National Park!

I like bridges. Olympic National Park.

I like bridges. Olympic National Park.

A beautiful ocean sunset to finish off my last night on Whidbey Island, Washington

A beautiful ocean sunset to finish off my last night on Whidbey Island, Washington

I am so filled with thanks and over-joyed at the opportunities I have been given during this internship. I will never forget the experiences I have had and the people I have met. Every day I realize more and more just how beautiful the world really is.

Marissa – Shoshone Field Office – Shoshone, Idaho

 

Archeology Trip!

A few weeks ago I got to go along with my mentor and an archeologist from our office on an all day trip out to survey one of our offices ACEC’s (Area of Critical Environmental Concern). Bordering this place in the Mule Mountains is a proposed solar development, and we set out to see if this proposed development could infringe on the ACEC or on historical sites of the indigenous people.

A place known as Alligator Rock, on the way to the Mule Mountians.

A place known as Alligator Rock, on the way to the Mule Mountains.

We turned off the main HWY and began down long sandy roads. Eventually we passed a slab of concrete where a lonely yellow couch sat.

The things you find out in the desert

The things you find out in the desert

After sometime we came to a place where we stooped to look at a few sites. We where shown Indian trails, old ceremonial sites, a dance circle, and also more recent things like fox holes dug out for WWII training

This shot up sign tells about the site

This shot up sign tells about the site

It's unknown exactly what these formations here used for. There where many of them, all in U shapes, all facing towards the mountain, and all with a central point in the middle.

It’s unknown exactly what these formations here used for. There where many of them, all in U shapes, all facing towards the mountain, and all with a central point in the middle.

This one was not as well defined as many of the others but I wanted to include it as you can get a since of the scale with my shadow included

This one was not as well defined as many of the others but I wanted to include it as you can get a sense of the scale with my shadow included

WWII fox hole dug out for training exercises

WWII fox hole dug out for training exercises

Back in the truck and down the sandy road we go. I start thinking about how it could only be 100 or so years ago that the indigenous people were here. About this place with a dance circle, well beaten trails, and ceremonial sites. This must have been an amazing place to be when everyone would gather here.

Next stop:

It's sad that signs like these even have to go up. People come out here tho and vandalize the site. They carve in the rocks creating their own modern petroglyph, and they will attempt to steel artifices, often just destroying things in the process.

It’s sad that signs like these even have to go up. People come out here though and vandalize the site. They carve in the rocks creating their own modern petroglyph, and they will attempt to steel artifices, often just destroying things in the process.

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I had never seen petroglyphs before. This site had so many!!!

It was explained to me that the dark color on the surface of the rocks is known as desert patina and happens via a slow chemical reaction. This process takes thousands of years and because we know this, we can put a rough age on the petroglyph that we see. That is, when the glyphs are brand new the exposed rock is nearly white. In time it gets darker, and after a very, very long time (thousands and thousands of years) it can even show signs of erosion as you will see below.

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Cut marks on the edge of a rock. I was told that this is something seen often at sites like these.

Cut marks on the edge of a rock. I was told that this is something seen often at sites like these.

Next we go to visit a much older site. This place was only recently discovered and is completely undisturbed.

So this petroglyph dates back between 12,000-14,000 years old! You can tell the the desert patina has returned, and boy is it dark. Not only that but the edges of the glyph show signs of erosion.

So this petroglyph dates back between 12,000-14,000 years old! You can tell the the desert patina has returned, and boy is it dark. Not only that, but the edges of the glyph show signs of erosion.

So many amazing things that I got to see that day. As it turns out, we will have to return to to complete our mission and see if the solar site will in fact impact the ACEC and archeology sites.  I was so grateful to be able to witness these sites and learn more of the deserts secrets and history.