Monardella Smell and Wyethia Hell: A Totally Biased Ranking of the Best Seeds in Plumas County

Another month has gone by here in Plumas National Forest. As the season goes on by and we approach the end of summer, I find myself in awe at how much we’ve accomplished. We’ve fallen into a steady routine by now, with most of our time consisting of checking on plant phenology, collecting mature seeds, and occasionally processing seeds to ensure good storage. That last part is key, we learned: ensuring our collections are stored properly. Following a chaotic end to our week, we showed up one Monday morning to be greeted by hundreds of flies that had taken over our office. There was a moment of confusion before we realized what had happened over the weekend– the rustling paper bags reminded us. The large Wyethia collection we were quite proud of from the week before was not properly looked at before bringing it inside. We definitely didn’t sort through the seed heads, given that we arrived back at the office around 10 pm after getting our truck stuck in the mud. Being too fried from the eventful day and also too used to loose seed collections, the thought of breaking up the seed heads to prevent moisture and loosen up whatever was inside didn’t occur to us that night.

Our plans for the day were pushed back a bit so we could make time to address the issue before it got worse and affected the rest of our collections. This meant we had to take our many bags of Wyethia mollis seeds outside and sort through them, cracking open individual seed heads and sorting out the seeds, removing any infected parts. This process was tedious and frustrating; sharp splinters pierced our skin as we crushed open the seed heads, dusty particles of plant material emitted an unpleasant odor into the air, and plenty of larvae wiggled around us. It felt like we had been defeated. Just a few days before, we had felt so accomplished, having stumbled upon a massive population. This was easily one of the largest collections we made all summer. Now we had a setback, with a ton of seeds to look through during peak collection time.

Wyethia mollis seed heads

But thankfully, not all seeds gave us so much trouble. One of the best parts of this month has been seeing all the variety of collections we have, and the unique experiences each species brings as we collect. There’s little variation in what we do everyday, at the surface level. Each day is the same, yet each day is unique: different plants offer different habitats, collection methods, textures, scents. Having collected from most of our target species by now, I’ve half-consciously created a ranking in my head of the most satisfying plants to collect from. A few of the highlights are:

  1. Veratrum californicum (Cornlily): This water-loving lily is often found in serene wet meadows, growing about 4-5 feet tall at times, creating an almost corn-maze-like effect. The seed pods took forever to reach maturity, but once they did, they easily made the top of the list for most satisfying collection. Thin, papery pods the size of grapes could be easily crushed, making a lovely crinkling sound and releasing several white, papery seeds. And if the seeds were really far into maturity, you could even grab a whole stalk, tilt it over into your bag, and gently shake it, releasing hundreds of seeds effortlessly.
Mature seeds
  1. Asclepias cordifolia (Purple Milkweed): Milkweeds are so fun to collect. Upon reaching maturity, the dried pods crack open to reveal some of the softest material I’ve ever felt. Each seed is accompanied by a large puff of milkweed “silk”, an incredibly lightweight pappus that aids in wind dispersal. This is a plant that makes me look forward to tedious seed cleaning!
Milkweed going to seed
  1. Lupinus arbutus (Lupine): Lupines can really be hit or miss. Our first encounter with Lupine collection was extremely unpleasant: while opening a pod, we had about an 80% chance some gross little larvae would pop out at us. But as we sampled new populations and learned that not all Lupines had this issue, at least not quite as severely as the first one, Lupine collection became one of my favorites. We came across a particularly good population of Lupinus arbutus that had virtually no bugs inside–yay! And then we finally got to experience the joy of having a perfectly mature seed pod pop open right in your hand as you reach to collect, separating all the seeds instantly and offering a nice crunchy feeling.
Lupine seed pods before maturity
  1. Monardella odoratissima (Monardella): Everyone in the building knows when we’ve collected Monardella– the strong minty scent spreads all throughout the hallway, becoming a nice natural air freshener. A few weeks ago it helped to mask the stench of old milk left in the communal fridge, quickly making it an office favorite. It definitely gets a few points for that alone. But the tactile qualities are nice as well. As the seed head dries, you simply walk up to one and crumple it, the seeds gently flaking off into the bag.
Monardella going to seed
  1. Elymus elymoides (Squirreltail): Elymus elymoides gets points just for the name. But also, it’s a funky looking native grass that has brushy seeds that you easily strip off in one sweep.

I could go on and on but I’ll stop there with my top five. And of course, my least favorite should be pretty obvious. (Wyethia mollis…)

In addition to seed collection, here’s some photos of some other fun stuff I saw this month:

Sierra Primrose, Primula suffrutescens
Fritillary butterflies all over this Angelica spp
Full moon rises over the valley

Check back in next month for more updates!

We don’t have much time!

As I’m starting this blog, we have about 30 minutes left before we need to clock out and avoid running into overtime. Today also happens to be the last day of the work week, right before our blog submissions are due. You might wonder why I’m just now starting this, and the answer lies with AT&T and the LIE that is “unlimited” data. This bounty of data does not apply to hotspots, apparently.

We aren’t allowed to use the USFS internet, and although I’d much rather save my hotspot data for downloading the Planet of the Apes movies, I end up using most of it in the office.

AT&T Unlimited Elite plan, you are a liar!!!

Fortunately, my hotspot data reset today, and with the ridiculously hot weather outside, I have the connection (and motivation) to sit in the office and work on this blog right now and only now.

As we pass the midway point of our internship, we’ve been busy collecting lots of seeds, of course. Today, we gathered Penstemon, snowberries, and Oregon Grape. However, I’ve been a bit down lately because thimbleberry is no longer fruiting, and the days feel just a little duller without it.

My mentor has popped into the cubicle to chat, so I’m out of time to write. I know this post isn’t very long or detailed, so I’ll make it up to you with a little something extra:

Ella, Ash, and I have been working on an album (you can find more details in their blog posts), and we all decided to write one song that really spoke to us. My contribution is ‘Ash Song,’ a parody of ‘Fight Song,’ inspired by the powerful being that is Ash Terry. I hope you enjoy.

Ash Terry, for reference.

Ash Song

Like a lichen that is growin’  

Mysterious, I’m not postin’  

Yeah, I went to Clemson  

So I’m well-spoken  

When mosquitos bite me  

I get very swollen  

Sorry I can’t help but slay  

Monkey Island, I’ll liberate  

South Car’lina, it’s on sight  

Can you hear my voice this time?

This is my Ash song (hey)  

My Ooh-ooh ahh-ahh song (hey) [Like monkey sounds] 

I take out the trash song (hey, ha)  

I’ve never been wrong (hey)  

Costa Rica, I’ll belong (hey)  

I’ll play my Ash song (hey)  

You know I’ve got “God’s Plan” by Drake on repeat (ha)  

‘Cause I’ve still got a lot of Ash left in me 

Moved to Oregon, I’m pulling weeds  

On the hunt for serviceberry  

Collecting seeds, I’m collecting seeds (I’m collecting seeds)  

And it’s been so long, I miss my home  

Well, that’s complicated, so I don’t know  

Still believe, yeah, I still believe  

Sorry that I can’t help but slay  

Monkey Island, I’ll liberate  

South Car’lina, it’s on sight  

Can you hear my voice this time?

This is my Ash song (hey)  

My Ooh-ooh ahh-ahh song (hey)  

I take out the trash song (hey, ha)  

I’ve never been wrong (hey)  

Costa Rica, I’ll belong (hey)  

I’ll play my Ash song (hey)  

You know I’ve got “God’s Plan” by Drake on repeat (ha)  

‘Cause I’ve still got a lot of Ash left in me, lotta Ash left in me  

Like a lichen that is growin’  

Mysterious, I’m not postin’  

Yeah, I went to Clemson  

So I am well-spoken  

When mosquitos bite me  

I get very swollen…

This is my Ash song (hey)  

My Ooh-ooh ahh-ahh song (hey)  

Take out the trash song (hey, ha)  

I’ve never been wrong (hey)  

Costa Rica, I’ll belong (hey)  

I’ll play my Ash song (hey)  

You know I’ve got “God’s Plan” by Drake on repeat (ha)  

‘Cause I’ve still got a lot of Ash left in me, I’ve still got a lotta Ash left in me

The Plants We Seek on Bertha Peak

The San Bernardino National Forest (SBNF) is a patchwork of unique microhabitats due to the geologic history of the region. Up until approximately 5 million years ago portions of San Bernardino county remained submerged beneath an ancient ocean (Kottkamp, 2023). The deposition of ancient sea shells, coral, and algae in Big Bear Valley formed limestone deposits which helped form soils rich in calcium carbonate (Faber, 2017). These deposits are valuable from both an economic perspective (limestone/dolomite mining for cement production) and an ecological perspective (supporting edaphic species; those that exist on only one soil type). The management of these areas have been outlined by the San Bernardino Forest Association’s Carbonate Habitat Management Strategy (CHMS, 2003). This plan attempts to facilitate economic activity (i.e. mining) while conserving the carbonate plants unique to the region. Part of this strategy includes the surveying of populations identified as threatened and endangered (T&E). This month I got to assist on a surveying project led by the mountaintop district botanist, Joseph Esparza, meant to identify populations of T&E carbonate plants located within a proposed prescribed burn area.

Members of our field crew making the ascent up the rocky carbonate slopes of Bertha Peak. August 21, 2024.

Our first surveying day began the morning of August 5th. We took off from the Big Bear Discovery Center and drove about 20 minutes northeast to a minor summit on the north shore of Big Bear Lake, Bertha Peak. After arriving at the trailhead we began to hike to the treatment area which required about a 1 mile trek with approximately 800 ft of elevation gain. As a relatively fit southern California hiker I did not feel too intimidated at first. However, hiking an incline at elevation was a unique challenge as our bodies’ slowly acclimated to the conditions. We were SWEATING. But the challenge felt worth it to take in not only the view of Big Bear Valley but the unique assemblage of plant species colonizing the steep carbonate hillsides and mixed conifer woodlands on our way up to the peak. On our way up Joseph pointed out key carbonate species we would need to keep an eye out for including: Eriogonum ovalifolim var. vineum, Dudleya abramsii ssp. affinis, Abronia nana var. covillei, and Astragalus leucolobus. All of these carbonate plant species have been identified as threatened by the state of California. 

Surveying for T&E species requires more than just marking a location on a map. When we came across an unmapped population of one of these carbonate plant species we, of course, created a polygon around the population perimeter. We also recorded associated species, phenology information, habitat description, and any signs of disturbance in the area. All of this data was recorded digitally using arcGIS field maps. Conducting these surveys helped sharpen my skills in native species identification and habitat classification. These are beneficial skills I will bring to any future surveying projects I assist on (or one day lead myself!). 

Holding the main tool of the surveying trade (my tablet with Field Maps) while standing at the base of a rocky slope and mapping a population of Coville’s dwarf sand verbena (A. nana var, covillei).

On that initial surveying day, forest botany tech Taylor Edwards and I surveyed multiple populations of E. ovalifolium tucked into the rocky southern facing slopes of Bertha Peak. On the second day I got to work with a field tech from the Inland Empire Resource Conservation District (IERCD), Lili Ortega. Lili and I surveyed a single population of A. nana containing 155 individuals and stretching 7,723 ft2 across another south-facing carbonate slope. This population was a particular challenge due to the irregular population margins and the scattered distribution of individuals within it. One of the major observations I made while surveying this area was that we were identifying the correct habitat type before we really began to hunt for individuals. There was no use heavily sweeping every inch of the duff soils in the denser areas of Pine and Juniper woodland that also inhabit the ridge as these areas were too crowded and did not possess the correct soil type to support these unique carbonate species. Instead we would quickly sweep through these denser areas until we came across the next rocky slope and those areas are where the true investigation began. An ecological eye requires an eye that is attuned to both the biotic members of our ecosystem (the plants) as well as the abiotic (soil type, slope, and aspect).

Lili Ortega (left) and myself (right) carefully scanning one of Bertha Peak’s slopes for T&E carbonate plant species.

I got to tag-a-long to a third day hiking the path up and along Bertha Peak. This final day involved Taylor, Lili, and I joining forces surveying toward one of the southeastern edges of the proposed treatment area. I was able to identify a small population of A. leucolobus on my own which increased my confidence in identifying this species as it was one I had not surveyed previously. We also surveyed a new population of A. nana, this time inhabiting a northwestern facing slope instead of the southwest facing slopes we had grown accustomed to. We capped the day with a final sweep of the outer perimeter of the treatment area but no suitable habitat was observed here, and thus no further populations were identified. This month helped teach me that the forest leaves clues for those with eyes trained to pick up on them. A particular geology type, a fallen tree, or track in the mud all possess within them a story. I am excited by the prospect that the more and more I work in this field the more my eyes become attuned to the narrative the land is trying to tell.  

Update From the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest

August has come and gone on the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest and has been filled with a number of new and continuing projects. Rare plant monitoring in Maxville Montana has continued as we search for rare species of Botrychium, Agoseris, and Erythranthe. Whitebark Pine surveys have continued through August, however we have begun transitioning away from Whitebark Pine and more towards our rare plant species.

Seed collection is in full swing as we begin to collect the desired species of our forests. Some of the species that have been collected so far include Berberis repens, Geum macrophyllum, Festuca campestris, Gaillardia aristata, Pershia tridentata, Geranium viscosissimum and Phacelia hastata.

This month I had the privilege of joining the wildlife crew for a field day working on lynx habitat monitoring. Using points generated by a habitat model, we hiked to different locations and used a coverboards to determine habitat viability as well as looked for sign of lynx prey species.

Some fun wildlife encounters from this month have included white-tail and mule deer, columbia-spotted frogs, garter snakes, and some interesting looking cyanobacteria.

Western Terrestrial Garter Snake

A new project that I was able to participate in was lichen monitoring. The Montana Natural Heritage Program has plots set out for monitoring on a decade long cycle where species classification and prevalence are determined for the area. This monitoring research is going towards habitat and air quality as lichens are a determining factor in air quality in certain environments.

Pollinator surveys have continued with a hike up to Goat Flats in hopes of capturing some high-altitude bees in subalpine regions of the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest. Aside from the amazing view this experience was particularly memorable since the crew got caught in a lighting and hailstorm that left us soaking wet and high-tailed for the truck.

View from Goat Flats pre-storm

August has been filled with inclement weather as Montana transitions from extreme heat to extreme storms. Fires continue to rage in Montana and all around the Beaverhead-Deer Lodge National Forest caused by both human activity and lightning storms that have been raging through the state.

Track #2 (Two Doggies in the Back Nothing in my Burlap Sack)

Quote

Sometimes, words fall short, unable to capture the hurricane of my mind. So I turn to my outlet of song: why use more word when fewer word do trick. This is one of the songs from our Willamette CLM album. This song is particularly meaningful to me as it captures the adversities one faces as a certified berry picker and shows how the mind wanders in the quiet of the forest. Some may say I am an overthinker, but I say no I am a dreamer, a dreamer of a bright future. In this future, I am free, driving through endless open roads in my truck. Beside me are two dogs (Liam and Neeson). They are my sons, my friends, my peace. Together, we chase the American dream: a life full of hope and freedom. I hope you too are a dreamer and enjoy this musical masterpiece from our album (Bagpipes and Barking by the Campfire). 

Bagpipes and Barking by the Campfire

Going down the highway, Rd 22 im on my way
Pulling up to my hideaway, gonna get some good berries today.
I found some Huckleberry, BaneBerry, and Snow.
Collecting 20% of berries I look high and low.
I found a motherload of berries and try not to have a heart attack,
But in my head I know there ain't no turning back

So I pick up my burlap sack and start the berry picking.
I'm picking, tripping, and kicking but you know that I ain't quitting.
I am doing my main berry mission, standing in my power position
I see my friends Katie and Ash wishing that they weren't itching from all the blackberry thorns we just walked through. 

Two doggies in the back, nothing in my burlap sack,
Rolling down the highway, never looking back,
Berries on my mind, and the sun on my track,
Dreaming of two doggies in the back, nothing in my burlap sack.

I'm still picking, I'm kicking, till the sun starts to fade,
But with these berries in my hand, I know I've got it made,
Still dreaming of two doggies in the back, and I’m right on the attack,
Filling up my sack, there’s no turning back!

Ayeee its dj dirty E on the track check it!!
I got berries in my sack marking it off on my GIS Map.
Dont worry don't fret I aint no threat im just a berry picking pro 
no no wait i'm a god thats right im a god oh dang I Dropped the berry pod that means im a fraud ok so im flawed but that dont mean i haven't clawed my way to the top of this berry hill
You won't hear me still til I grab a couple mil of berries for my bag Invasive species i will flag you won't catch me lag until my mission is filled.
I said my mission is filled DJ Dirty E is on this track with a full burlap sack it's time to take it back to the chorus get that!

Two doggies in the back, something in my burlap sack,
Rolling down the highway, never looking back,
Berries on my mind, and the sun on my track,
Dreaming of two doggies in the back, something in my burlap sack.
I'm still picking, I'm kicking, till the sun starts to fade,
But with these berries in my hand, I know I've got it made,
Still dreaming of two doggies in the back, and I’m right on the attack,
Filling up my sack, there’s no turning back!

The clock says that its 4:30 you know what that means, 
its the end of todays berry dreams
Until tomorrow my heart will swallow the memories that were made on this beautiful berry day. 
For the day cannot always stay so I will go home and pray
that I can be blessed by another berry array. 
Berry Haul

Dakota Prairie Grassland: Journeys with a Botanist, Sand Dunes on the Grassland

Second full month on the grassland is officially over! I’m sooooo ready for fall, it’s been a dry August and everything is starting to turn brown. Earlier this month we had the opportunity of going out into the field with the Medora district’s botanist Jack Dahl to learn about ecological sites and to do a vegetation survey within a population of Ponderosa pines (Pinus ponderosa). Commonly used in rangeland management, ecological regions are mainly defined and categorized by an area’s soil type and plant species composition, which then indicates the “ecological potential” (i.e. what the best management or restoration practices would be) of that site. Years ago they had done a vegetation survey at this site, so one our visit we went through the previous plant species list to confirm old observations and notate any new species.

We also go to see where a wildfire went through another population of Ponderosa pines over 20 years ago. Jack told us they’ve tried replanting ponderosa in the past here, but something about the soil just can’t support their growth anymore

Wavyleaf thistle (circium undulatum) has been our main target species for seed collections this month, but that’s winding down now. In terms of native seed work, most of our time is spent cleaning thistle seed while we wait for our next target species (Ratibida columnifera and Echinacea angustifolia) to begin seeding.

Weird bug
Cleaning Wavyleaf thistle

Later in the month we went out with Jack again to get going with sensitive plant species surveys on the Grand, starting with Visher’s / Dakota buckwheat (Eriogonum visheri). Dakota buckwheat is a small annual in the Polygonaceae family, and most easily identified by relatively large, rounded red leaves at the base and small yellow-white flowers. They grow in bare, eroded soils of badland-type habitat, and are most threatened by grazing (mostly cattle stepping on them) and competition from other pioneer species.

Dakota buckwheat, very very small and difficult to see, but once seen can be easily identified by its thin, red stems and rounded leaves at the base
Portion of a population we surveyed, very difficult to see but they’re there

Another sensitive plant species we are to survey is Smooth goosefoot (Chenopodium subglabrum), another small annual but in the Amaranthaceae family and grows in sandy soil. We went to check on a site where they had been found about 20 years ago, and to my surprise the site was in an actual sand dune! Would have never guessed that this was here, and I have yet to learn the specifics on how this has formed, but there sure are sand dunes on the grassland. Unfortunately we could not find the plant in this spot, but hopefully it’ll be present in our future survey sites.

Sand city
And who would I be if I didn’t end this with a picture of a weevil

Berry Pickin’

Summer in the Pacific Northwest means berry season. While some, like the red baneberry, are highly poisonous, a lot of them are edible and quite tasty, making seed collection go by a lot faster. Whenever I get a little hungry, I just “test” one of the seeds for ripeness by assessing the flavor. In my free time, I return to populations too small for collection, but just big enough for personal use. I take the blueberries and bake a scrumptious, yet tart, blueberry pie, and the huckleberries are perfect for muffin making.

Vaccinium membranaceum (Thinleaf huckleberry!)
Vaccinium membranaceum muffinaceum ft. Katius Skelteum

I’ve never felt this provided for in an ecosystem before. While I’m sure my beautiful southeastern home has ample vegetation to meet my needs, I was never taught anything about that. Most of my background is in agriculture. Working on farms and in fields, you develop a certain relationship with the land. It’s almost a parental role. You give the crops what they need – water, sun, nutrients – and watch as they take the provisions to grow and mature. You love your crops (except for maybe that tricky relationship with the bad seed who got influenced by the wrong crowd (aphids)), and you feel a sense of pride because you shaped them. You take their fruits, but those fruits are partially a product of your labor. 

With seed collection though, I’ve developed a whole new relationship with the plants. There is no sense of pride with seed collection. I contribute nothing to the success of the plants. I play no role in their growth. I don’t give, I only take. 

Berries in the bag!

The roles are reversed – now the plants are taking care of me. I didn’t have to earn it, I just had to appreciate it. The term mother nature takes on a whole new meaning. While I’m well aware that every material thing I own comes from nature, I’m so separated from the raw materials that it’s hard to appreciate. But, when I pick the berries off the branch and pop them in my mouth, I know exactly who to thank. The book I’ve been reading, Braiding Sweetgrass by Robin Wall Kimmerer, has been teaching me to express gratitude to every part of nature. The berries that I collect are pure gifts. I’ve been trying to keep in mind the lessons from this book as I collect my seeds. Kimmerer talks of how she always leaves an offering for plants and thanks them when she collects from them. My inner treehugger comes out, but it feels joyous to thank the plants for their gifts. Even when I bake with my personal collection, I feel more inclined to take my time because I know that I’m using gifts, and there’s nothing more hurtful than wasting a well-thought out present. During work hours it feels even better to know that I’m using these gifts to help the plants back. The seeds that we collect will primarily be used for meadow and fire restoration, so everything I take goes right back to earth – a neverending cycle of gratitude and giving. 

Tree huggers

P.S. My two fellow interns and I have been working on an album to put into song what is so hard to convey with typical prose. Below is an attempt to explain how I feel when I’m picking berries.

Berries in the bag

Well I was drivin my load down that gravel road
Yung Gravy blastin through my speakers
Windows down, sunglasses up, 
Sending a thanks to my good lord Caesar
Passin bracken ferns and heck maybe even cedars (I dont know my trees)

I’m cruisin right along, apartment K on my mind
When I hear a ‘stop’ yelp out the back
I get out the truck (there’s nothing here, wait what?)
As I grab my pack, I see em

Berries to my left. 
Berries to my right.
Berries up and down. 
Berries everywhere in sight.
I grab a ziploc, grab my walky talk
And I start grabbin those 
Berries off the branch.
Berries in my hand.
Berries in the sky
Berries in my eye
But first..
Berries in the bag. (Yee haw)
Berries in the bag 

Sittin in these bushes, got dirt for a cushion
Hands stained purple from the fruit of my labor
Bees swarm, birdies dive
Everyone wants a taste of my berries to savor
Karma blessin’ for my good behavior

My stomach gives a rumble, gives a grumble
She don’t like seein’ what she can’t have
I decide to brave it through, clench those ab muscles (shoutout Shaun T)
But that’s when I realize I got

Berries to my left. 
Berries to my right.
Berries up and down. 
Berries everywhere in sight.
I grab a ziploc, grab my walky talk
And I start grabbin those 
Berries off the branch.
Berries in my hand.
Berries in the sky
Berries in my eye
But first..
Berries in the tummy. (Yee haw)
Berries in the tummy

Huckleberries. Thimbleberries. Blueberries. Snowberries.
I’ll take em all, take em anyway
Blackberries. Black cap raspberries. Elderberries. Red baneberries.
Bake them berries in a pie. Berries in the sky
Berries on my tongue. Berries when I’m on the run.
Keep me fed. Keep me full. Got my girl nourished too
Berries...
I love youuuuu!

Berries to my left. 
Berries to my right.
Berries up and down. 
Berries everywhere in sight.
I grab a ziploc, grab my walky talk
And I start grabbin those 
Berries off the branch.
Berries in my hand.
Berries in the sky
Berries your the love of my life
But first...
Berries in the bag. (Yee haw)
Berries in the bag 
Berriieess
Beriieees
Berries get in my bag!!!

Cup Lake Draba

This month brought a fun change to the seed collecting routine. We were sent out on a three day backpacking mission to check in on a rare endemic, the Cup Lake Draba!

Draba asterophora var. macrocarpa only grows between two small, granite-lined lakes in the Desolation Wilderness. The terrain is rugged and difficult to access. Whitebark pine and gnarled hemlocks hug windswept ridges and a diversity of alpine flowers cling to granite cracks. On the north facing aspect of this ridgeline is where the Cup Lake Draba makes its living.

We began our trip by stuffing as much gear as we could fit into our packs. Tents, sleeping bags and pads, food and stoves, as well as many non essentials such as cameras, moth lights, binoculars, bug nets and UV flashlights. We’re a group of nerds, what can we say!

The Jepson is always worth bringing!

With our absurdly heavy loads, we began up the 2,500 ft climb; taking it slow and observing the wildlife and plants along the way. As we reached the summit and entered the whitebark pine zone, we were greeted by an exploratory pika, great views of Lake Tahoe, and a very surprised family of sooty grouse.

Cup lake is a tiny body of water situated in a deep granite bowl. The water is cold, and there are several alpine plants who live along its edges. Before setting up camp, we hiked down to the lake and did a preliminary search for the Draba. It was easy to locate the historical polygons, but sadly there were no flowers present.

Cup Lake

The next day we split off into two groups. Beth and Allie stayed to remap and survey the main lakeside population, while Tori and I hiked along the ridge to map out a series of populations that hadn’t been visited since the early 2000s.

Lakeside lunching

As we moved along the ridge we began to get a feel for the Draba’s habitat preference. We only encountered it on the north side in slightly sheltered areas. It seemed to thrive in decomposed granite surrounded by bigger boulders and protected from the elements. We were excited to find thousands of plants thriving in these unforgiving conditions. We even found a handful in full flower! If conditions allow, we will be revisiting these populations to make conservation seed collections from this rare plant.

There it is!

Overall, the trip was a great success! We have another backpacking trip to the wilderness coming up to survey for whitebark pine, and I’m excited to get back out there. The season of flowers is coming to a close, and it’s nice to get up high and catch the alpine ones before fall comes.

Eriogonum lobbii
Gastroboletus turbinatus var. flammeus, a rare mushroom

Earth

Georges Seurat filled a canvas with many thousands of pointillistic dots to paint the Isle of La Grande Jatte; in the same way, many thousands of isles dot the Alaskan coastline to paint the landscape of the Alexander Archipelago. These islands – some thousands of square miles, others just barely breaking the surface at low tide – are in fact the many peaks of an underwater mountain range. Further south, they march out of the sea to form the Cascades. As glaciers retreated from here thousands of years ago, they carved the tangled fractal of fjords and channels that fill the valleys between those mountains. The soil on the hills above has had only a minute to form, in geologic time, and the cool weather further slows its formation. Little more than a few inches of gray-black muck support the conifers here, and it regularly slumps into liquefied landslides.

At first, it would seem that Prince of Wales Island would be a bit dull for a soil scientist. There are no farms here, as one might expect, so there is not much of a market for soil testing – in fact, much of the area remains unmapped in the NRCS’s soil surveys of America…in reality, the opposite is the case. Soil scientists (and their more charismatic cousins, geologists) have no shortage of curiosities awaiting them on the Tongass.

The northern half of Prince of Wales is built upon a honeycomb of karst – limestone that has been fluted by the slow drip-drip-drip of underground seeps and springs. More than 600 caves have been found on the island, with many more surely lurking deep in the forest. We toured El Capitan, the largest cave in Alaska, and even in an hour saw only the entrance. Far beyond the end of our adventure lay titanic, cave rooms hundreds of feet in every dimension – an underground cathedral in a perpetually echoic Midnight Mass, sine lux aeterna.

A few hundred feet from the cave’s mouth, we performed our most unusual (and my favorite) seed collection of the year thus far. Hordeum brachyantherum, meadow barley, grows like rice in tidal flats, flooding and drying twice a day. Emma and I scurried around a patch of it – as fast as one can scurry in rain boots, sinking into 15 inches of mud and water – collecting as much as possible before the rising tide swallowed the shore again. The rippling waves of grass and seawater under a rare cloudless sky easily made for one of my favorite sights this summer.

Elsewhere on our island, the ground sinks into bottomless pits of peat moss in muskegs. These bizarre bogs are a soil scientist’s dream and nightmare simultaneously: they consist of several spongy feet of waterlogged moss and nothing else. Muskegs are the closest thing to Indiana Jones-style quicksand pits one is likely to ever encounter in real life – one wrong step could mean disappearing into a ten-foot well of slime. (The “bog mummies” of Ireland and the Andes formed in exactly this manner; the anaerobic environment slows decay almost to a standstill.) As unearthly as these are, however, they support a fascinating diversity of plants found in few other places. Bog cranberries, cottongrass and water sedge are three muskeg-loving plants we have collected thus far. And how could I forget the day that I hiked 8 miles in driving rain to one such muskeg to pick cloudberries! These petite orange raspberries, Rubus chamaemorus, are tremendously frustrating to cultivate (I have tried) and equally laborious to pick, but absolutely worth the effort. They taste a bit like a mix between apple pie and peach yogurt. If you ever have the opportunity, I highly recommend going to the trouble of picking them.

I am always in awe of how the forces of nature are laid bare in Alaska to create a wild landscape like nowhere else. Much like the other features of the Tongass that I have written about already, Alaska’s geology has a colorful and vibrant story to tell. It dots the Pacific coast with a dizzying array of jungle islands, and produces an abundant scattering of minerals – salt, marble, uranium, and gold – that have been integral to the island’s history and environment. It is strange to think that I will only be in the Last Frontier for just over a month yet, and I have so much of this island to still explore. No doubt, it will be full of many more adventures and things to learn.

The Weather in Montana Can’t Make up its Mind!

I knew the weather in Montana would be different than what I am used to, but I didn’t realize quite how unpredictable it is. In New England we like to say “If you don’t like the weather wait a few minutes” but here that is even more true. In the past month it has hailed, poured rain, thunder-stormed, been humid, been dry, been hot, been cold, and even snowed a little.

I check the weather every day yet I still never feel quite prepared for what the Montana weather will decide to do. We always joke that if more than half the cows are laying down that means it will rain. Although this is not a fool proof method of predicting weather I often find looking to the cows to be more accurate than whatever my weather app says. I also don’t think I’ll ever get used to how much the temperature changes when we drive down the mountain. There is often a 10 degree difference between where I live and the nearest city, Great Falls.

Me with a cow skull I found while collecting seed.

Another thing about the weather here that I am still getting used to is the wind. The wind is louder and stronger than anything I am used to. Not too long ago we were camping in an area we wanted to collect seed in. During the night the wind was so loud I thought a bear was trying to break into my tent! We could hear the wind building up before it hit our campsite and it made my tent shake. I think none of us slept very well that night between the loudness and the fear of falling trees. Luckily no trees fell in our campsite.

Despite unpredictable, and sometimes scary weather I have really been enjoying my time here. I was lucky enough to see a moose which was a bucket list item for me (I almost cried). I am continuing to learn so much and I am so grateful for the community in the region of my forest, they even make our safety meetings fun. I feel homesick sometimes, but I also know that I will be so sad to leave when my season is over.