The Buffalo Life

Things have slowed down a decent amount in the last month. With colder weather creeping in and office work taking over, time blurs together, yet to my amazement we are now near the end of October. Time in the office has been spent mostly mapping fencing across our field office, primarily for grazing allotments monitored from this year. Some of the allotments done this year will be part of a broader range-land health report on a watershed scale. And in order to accurately state the extent of the report we need to know the real size of the allotments based off of where the fences actually lie. While mapping fencing may not sound thrilling, there is something calming and rewarding about finding those many lines that cross the landscape.

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Atop Mosier Gulch trail, looking ahead to the Bighorn Mountains. A great day for some mountain biking.

But mapping fencing is not the only thing to be done. Weeding of course is still on the to do list. The same weeding found on the vegetation plots mentioned last blog. Yet incredibly the end of that is on the horizon! Only 5 out of the 24 plots remain. We have also recently opened the door to range-land improvements. These improvements include fences, wells, spring developments, reservoirs, roads, etc. that are located on BLM land. These need to be located through mapping or in the field, they ideally need to be regularly inspected, they need to contain a physical file, and also need to be included in an online database. Since so many factors involve each improvement there is of course work to be done resolving discrepancies and conducting inspections in the field.

Beyond the excitement of work has been the last of the warmer activities in the mountains. One weekend I had the chance to meet up with the many Lander, WY interns for a trip in the Western Bighorn Mountains. To my luck I received a call about the trip minutes before heading out on a backpacking trip of my own. I met up with them at the trailhead later on in the day and we had set up camp not far from West Tensleep Lake. This had been the first night I’ve ever slept atop a tarp with nothing overhead. And what a night it was to do so. That night we had dew collect upon everything exposed, and the temperature had dropped below freezing.

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Waking up to a frost covered sleeping bag was certainly a first for me, although miraculously it was a toasty night in the bag. After a hearty breakfast we ventured off to the next location down-trail. At Helen Lake we set up the next camp and I had time to do some fly fishing for the day. It was a beautiful day and I even got to nap in in the hammock after fishing. Beyond the nice weather hid looming overnight storms. And to my shock (which shouldn’t have been unexpected in early October) was some late night and early morning snow. Frost on the sleeping the first night, and a snowy tent the second. Both firsts for me. But even though it was as cold as it looks, the valley was gorgeous with all the snow.

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Lake Helen up West Tensleep Trail

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A gorgeous view just waiting to be snowed on

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First time waking up to a snowy campsite!

After all the fun of camping in a large group, the next weekend I planned to continue the initial backpacking trip I had sought after. The destination was the Firehole Lakes up near Bighorn Peak on the Eastern side of the mountains. This 5-6 mile hike including an off trail section crossing boulder fields. Finding a site to camp up near the bottoms of the high peaks is difficult due to the rockiness of the Bighorns. But after finding an adequate sight I had noticed the plethora of moose activity in the area. Stripped bark, chomped young trees, and no shortage of moose poo. All this activity led to the unsurprising, yet still unnerving calls of an animal near the tent before bed. While exciting to hear the moose nearby, I was also reconsidering placing my tent on this moose’s favorite tree chomping spot. But nevertheless the moose had moved on and/or found a resting spot for the night, and wasn’t heard again.

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After a night of waking up nearly every hour (the wind was obscene that night) I was awoken to an absolutely incredible sunrise. I may have missed the reddest moments of the sunrise but I got quite the show when I walked down to the lake. This trip also initially had the goal of catching some of the larger fish found in these lakes. But with no luck the day before or the morning after, I eventually started working my way out, only to finally catch a small fish in a tiny stream a mile back.

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A stream on the way out of the Firehole Lakes. And of course the only place where I catch a fish that weekend.

The last month has primarily been spent in the near and dear Buffalo area, but it’s hard to complain with the Bighorns just minutes away. With the cold weather setting in I’ll hopefully take advantage of the nicer days left before the near sedentary life sets in. Til next time!

Nick Melone

Buffalo, WY

The Ups and Downs of Carlsbad

I am now at the close of my internship here in Carlsbad, New Mexico, and it has been filled with ups and downs. Although leaving will be bittersweet, I must say that this month especially has been an incredible roller coaster ride that I think I am ready to get off of.

The normal scenery of a field day in the sand dunes ecotype of late September.

The normal scenery of a field day in the sand dunes ecotype of late September. Photo taken by B. Palmer

Where did I leave off…oh yes, what better place to pick up what I have been up to than that of the Seeds of Success collections that have finally matured into existence. Like I mentioned, Carlsbad got a bout of a very late rainy season, but it came nonetheless. With this precious rain, we were blessed with fields of wildflowers and the emergence of late summer grasses. Oh we have done so many collections in the last month! To date we have done 39 collections; a few months ago we were not even sure we would hit 30. We are even planning on nearly 10 more in the next week! AND we will be missing out on a lot of collections because the internship is ending in merely a few weeks.

The dunes were absolutely covered in little white and yellow flowers

The dunes were absolutely covered in little white and yellow flowers. I did a collection of the little white ones, Melampodium leucanthum. Photo taken by B. Palmer

I became the human pollinator on a collection day in the gypsum soil!

I became the human pollinator on a collection day in the gypsum soil walking through snakeweed (Gutierrezia sarothrae) and glowworts (Sartwellia flaveriae)! Photo taken by B. Palmer

This is CLM intern Meridith McClure, excited to be collecting

This is CLM intern Meridith McClure, excited to be collecting Oenothera elata near the Black River. Photo taken by B. Palmer

Because we were all the sudden less stressed about getting to our goal number of collections, Meridith and I decided it would be good to go out with other departments to get a sense of other things we can be a part of working for the BLM. We were fortunate enough to be invited out on a bat survey! From the cave and karst department, we went out with the “Living Legend,” BLM resource explorer Jim Goodbar. This was one of the men that took us out caving on our first week, and we were excited to go out again with him. We went to a little karst feature on nearby BLM land named “Tea Kettle” at dusk of one evening after a long field day, and waited near the cave entrance with our clicker counters as the sun went down. As the group of us waited, Mr. Goodbar gave us tips to counting bats as the emerge from the cave to feed. He mentioned that often times the bats come out flying in such large groups it can be difficult to count, so he estimates them by 5’s or 10’s as they come. As we waited, the desert sunset came and went, and it continued to get darker. We got a little nervous that we would miss the bats, as we had only seen a few scouts fly out just before it was nearly dark. However, our patience was rewarded with thousands of bats that flew out of the little cave. My, it was difficult to count, but quite a sight to see! After about 30 minutes of counting, we stopped and compared numbers. The group of us ended up counting about 6,000 bats! What a feat! This bat emergence is no comparison of the hundreds of thousands that come out at the Carlsbad Caverns (if you ever get the chance to see you should), but it was still an amazing part of this internship that I am happy to have been a part of.

The group of us patiently waiting for the sun to set. Photo taken by F. Banos

The group of us patiently waiting for the sun to set and for the bats to emerge. Photo taken by F. Banos

We had a wonderful photographer along with us for the survey. Turns out we were counting a species of the Molossidae, likely Mexican freetail bats. Photo taken by F. Banos

We had a wonderful photographer of the office  along with us for the survey. Turns out we were counting a species of the Molossidae, likely Mexican freetail bats. Photo taken by F. Banos

This month we were also put into touch with Guadalupe Mountains National Park, in Salt Flat, Texas. The Guadalupe mountains is a small range goes from Southern New Mexico and dips into Western Texas (fun fact: the tallest point in Texas is Guadalupe Peak at 8750 feet, and found in the park). They were gracious enough to let us collect for SOS in the park, as long as we followed their requests: We were only to collect from large populations that we would not impact the ecosystem or populations in any way (which is SOS protocol anyway), and that we collect enough that they can take back the extra to store for their own restoration uses. We found this to be a very beneficial partnership for a number of reasons. The Guadalupe mountains features unique ecosystems of the Chihuahuan Desert, from salt basins, to riparian rocky drainages, to shortgrass prairie. We are also proud to be partnering with them because there is currently very little collaboration between the National Park Service and Seeds of Success. We are very happy to find a partner that has lots to offer to the native seed initiative of SOS, and is also happy to be collaborating with us.

Some Agave along the trail of McKittrick Canyon in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Photo taken by B. Palmer

Some Agave along the trail of McKittrick Canyon in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Photo taken by B. Palmer

We were scouting for potential populations to collect from in the Park when we stumbled upon a group of desert ferns! Photo taken by B. Palmer

We were scouting for potential populations to collect from in the Park when we stumbled upon a bunch of desert ferns! Photo taken by B. Palmer

The grass,

The grass, Muhlenbergia emersleyi, was found in McKittrick canyon and became one of our collections from the Park, also a collection I did on my own. Photo taken by B. Palmer

We have done two collection days out of three so far at Guadalupe Mountains National Park, and the second day was far more memorable. I ended up getting three collections on my own, after Meridith had called in sick that day. Not only that, but I walked out of my apartment to go to work that morning and it was thundering with pouring rain. It did not deter me, however, and after a quick look at the weather of the National Park went on ahead to collect. It was a foggy, cool, and damp day, but in the end made for a rather enjoyable collection day. The trail of McKittrick Canyon was peaceful, and the air was cool and fresh. My fingers cold and the fruits wet, I still was able to manage three collections that day, all on my own.

The morning was cool, damp, and foggy in McKittrick Canyon. However, it made for a rather pleasant hike up to the collection areas. Photo taken by B. Palmer

The morning was cool, damp, and foggy in McKittrick Canyon. However, it made for a rather pleasant hike up to the collection areas. Photo taken by B. Palmer

The seeds were soaking wet when I collected them, and ended up having to lay them out to dry overnight...we don't want any moldy unviable collections! Photo taken by B. Palmer

The seeds were soaking wet when I collected them, and I ended up having to lay them out to dry overnight…we don’t want any moldy unviable collections! Photo taken by B. Palmer

Oh, I have an update on the pressed cactus! In my last post, I talked about successfully pressing cactus, and what a painful and tedious job it was. Well, after continuously changing out blotting paper, and cardboard in the press, a few weeks into the drying process I found out that ALL the cacti collections molded! Mold to the point of throwing everything away and forced to try again. All that hard work and handfuls of glochids did not matter, and had to be thrown out. We decided to be more cautious the second time around. We went and collected even more specimens, and this time, handled everything very carefully. After cutting the cacti in half and cautiously scooping them out, we laid them out in the sun to dry before pressing.

The last time we cut open the cacti to press, we did it inside at my desk...and I am still finding glochids everywhere! This time we worked from the back of our BLM truck, to avoid bringing in any unwanted prickly's! Photo taken by B. Palmer

The last time we cut open the cacti to press, we did it inside at my desk…and I am still finding glochids everywhere! This time we worked from the back of our BLM truck, to avoid bringing in any unwanted prickly’s! Photo taken by B. Palmer

While they were laying out in the sun, we got word that the BLM fire crew had a dehydrator that we could use! They typically use it to determine the moisture content in grasses and figure out the fire danger potential in given areas. I was a little skeptical at fist, having dried specimens in an oven before in school. I was warned back then to never leave specimens in an oven that was too hot or for too long, or else they may burn to a crisp. When I asked how hot this oven would get, I was reassured and told that they leave plants in there up to 24 hours without any issues. With this said, I assumed it would be a low heat and we were excited to use it. It turns out I assumed wrong. After leaving the cacti specimens in there no more than a few hours, we checked on them to see how they were drying. Low and behold, instead of dried-up cactus we were hoping for, had remnants of what used to be cactus…now biochar. Turns out that oven gets to be pretty hot! Once again we were hit in the face of yet another silly trial and error moment. We will be attempting to press cactus for a third time in the next few days, one last hoorah of drying specimens for the collection. The first try was too moist, the second too dry, so the third try should be a charm and just right…right?

Here we have biochar cactus.

Here we have biochar cactus; an unfortunate discovery on take #2 of pressing cactus. We will be trying again…with more expertise on take #3! I wonder if other people have the same issues we have pressing cactus, or if it is just us and our inexperienced ways…Photo taken by B. Palmer

On that note I find myself at the end of my internship, merely two weeks away from finishing. This is were the post started, and where everything is coming to a close. I cannot lie, this has been the longest five months of my twenty-six years; the craziest year of life yet. The things I have done in a single year seems absolutely unreal. I acquired my undergraduate degree. I worked my first job remotely close to the field I want to pursue, at the Denver Botanic Gardens. I was accepted into this internship. I got to spend a week in Chicago at a workshop to learn how to do this job well. I spent one crazy, dry, hot summer working in the Chihuahuan Desert with the Bureau of Land Management. I was fortunate enough to spend some time in Savannah, Georgia at the Botany 2016 Conference. I got married to my rock, my high school sweetheart, the one and only love of my life. And after even all of that, I came back to the little gas and oil town of Carlsbad, NM in the Chihuahuan Desert to finish out this internship. I learned all sorts of trades of the office, from caving and bat surveys, to soil erosion control and wildlife water maintenence. Better yet, I am proud to say I was a part of something bigger, working with Seeds of Success. Every collection became more rewarding than the next. In the end, this internship has probably been the most mentally challenging thing I have ever done. Yet, I don’t regret this exhilarating experience that I have been a part of the last five or so months. I will warn you, if you are thinking about applying to the CLM, or becoming a future Carlsbad intern, it is not easy. It is also not meant for everyone; it takes a special kind of person to pursue this field. But it will also be an experience of a lifetime.

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

I come back to this wonderful quote by Mark Twain that I mentioned in one of my earlier blog posts because I still believe it is something that everyone should experience. It is important to see the world, make your own opinions, learn what is out there for yourself…even for an introverted, OCD, and even at times socially awkward hermit such as myself. This internship has helped me get out of my shell and explore, even if just a little.

If you ask me about where I am going next, I will answer you by saying, I am unsure. I do not have a job lined up when I get back home to Colorado. I can’t tell you where I will be two months from now, or a year from now. Maybe I will be continuing work as a field technician for a federal agency, or maybe I will be back in school in a graduate program. But whatever I decide to do, I am eager to continue in field botany, plant conservation, and research. If we have any chance at preserving the ecosystems we have on this beautiful earth, it starts with the soil and the plants that take root in that soil. Without flora, the fauna that so many people adore cannot exist. With this in mind and this CLM experience under my belt, I am ready to take on the world. I am very happy I was able to have the chance and wonderful opportunity to be a part of this program. It will be something that I will take with me for the rest of my career as a botanist, and for the rest of my life. Thank you, CLM, for helping me become the person I am today.

I am a field botanist, and ready for the next adventure that awaits for me.

I am a field botanist, and ready for the next adventure that awaits for me.

Yours truly,

Brooke Palmer

Conservation and Land Management Intern

Bureau of Land Management, Carlsbad, New Mexico

My last blog post :'(

5 months in the desert, I can’t believe it’s almost over and that I’m writing my last blog post. I have just a few days left and then I pack all my things into my car along with my two cats and head back across California to the North Coast, about 860 miles away. It’s a bit scary too because I have not yet found a job and am currently planning on living off my savings from this internship. More than that though, I feel a great sadness, that I’m about to leave all this behind. It’s been 5 months and I am now familiar with the land, the plants, I know my way around, I know the people, the politics and feel very vested in this project. I defiantly plan on keeping in touch with my mentor and with the field office here to see how everyone is and how the project goes.

I am currently helping to edit a document that summarizes our summers worth of vegetation monitoring out at Dos Palmas. Other current projects include conducting ACEC (Area of Critical Environmental Concern) monitoring. We just went to the desert Lily Preserve last week and did an evaluation of the land. It looked really good out there. I have also wrapped up the seasons SOS work, sending in our last collection, wrapping up and sending in the vouchers we collected, and packing things away with good notes for next years intern.

The dried remains og a Bird cadge evening primrose (Oenothera deltoides). Sorry Krissa, this was literally the only Onagraceae I found all summer.

The dried remains of a Bird cadge evening primrose (Oenothera deltoides) at the Desert Lily Preserve. Sorry Krissa, this was literally the only Onagraceae I found all summer.

I hope to get a field job this coming spring somewhere in the Pacific North West region, though at the same time one thing I have learned with this internship is that I am more of a long term person and as such would like a permanent position some place. Leaving and saying good bye is difficult, and when you have become attached to the land it’s even harder.

Out hiking desert canyons, washes and tributaries, in search of invasive Salt Cedar to eradicate.

Out hiking desert canyons, washes and tributaries. Armed with loppers, hand saws, and herbicides, in search of invasive Salt Cedar to eradicate.

This is only the first chapter of my post college life. I am beyond excited to see where I go from here, weather that is back to school for a higher degree, to work who knows where, or what, I just know it will be fantastic. One thing this internship has really showed me is that I love working, and there are really honestly and truly jobs out there that will hire me where I can make a difference and contribute to something that I believe benefits everyone.

I learned so many things this summer, including how to use a plant press to make herbarium vouchers!!!

Making a pressing of Eriogonum inflatum for an SOS collection at Big Morongo Canyon Preserve

Making a pressing of Eriogonum inflatum for an SOS collection at Big Morongo Canyon Preserve

A long time ago my grandma asked me if I had all the money in the world what would I do? I said (thinking of the central valley of California and extending up all the way into the mountains eastward) that I would like to own thousands of acres and restore the land with native plant and animal species, including reintroducing mega fauna. Possibly build a large stone wall around the huge strip of land and reintroduce fire to the landscape in regular and healthy intervals. She said I was crazy and that was just a dream, maybe so, but now that I’m here and working at the BLM I feel like I have actually found that dream. There are thousands of acres of wild lands, millions in fact. I get to work and help restore them, protect them, and maintain them. I get to work on native seed collections for future restoration efforts and scientific research. I feel that I am living my dream actualized (and this is only my first job out of college!!!!!). I would love some day to become a a full time and permanent BLM employee.

Gathering seeds of Anemopsis californica that we patiently waited for and watched all summer long. (I can't believe this is actually my job!!!!)

Gathering seeds of Anemopsis californica that we patiently waited for and watched all summer long. (I can’t believe this is actually my job!!!!)

Anemopsis californica

Anemopsis californica. My last SOS seed collection.

 

Thank you Chicago Botanic Garden.
You have done more for me than you could ever know.

Crystal S. Neuenschwander
CLM Intern, BLM, Palm Springs, Ca