Two tracks

At the bottom of a valley along a river were multiple survey points that were next on our priority list. We could see that the area was very green and wet, distinct from the many sites we had previously visited. Determined to reach the Great Valley, we took the only two-track we could find in the direction we wanted to go — down. The descent was an uneasy one, to say the least, with extremely uneven and rocky terrain. I continued to realize new limits of the truck (limits you do not want to go out of your way to try to test). Oh, what a great feeling it was when the truck was finally parallel to the horizon. It was one of those roads that you went down with no intention (or possibility) of climbing back up. “We will find another way out of this valley, for sure,” I reassured Maria. She was hesitant to believe my naive optimism, an unfortunate foreshadowing of what was to come later.

On the brighter side, the valley was everything I would have hoped it to be and more. It was a beautiful wetland, with a slow moving stream and flooded grasslands; an oasis for insects, amphibians, and many interesting and unique flora that we do not usually get to see in the sage.

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The winds picked up and I felt a sudden cool down, you know that, “oh, there’s a storm brewin’ feelin'” ? I looked up to find a large mass of dark clouds headed our way. We wrapped up our current survey and headed back to the truck. Come to find out, all of the two tracks that had appeared promising were on the other side of the stream, a winding stream with banks too steep and too wet to drive over. In addition to the stream, there were deep canyons that ran through the landscape like the way a small crack in your windshield soon spreads and expands in unpredictable ways. Without a two-track in site that was reachable, we knew we would have to “off-road” it for a while. The vegetation was thick and made it difficult to see what was ahead or beneath us. The soil was damp, alkaline sand. It was about an hour and a half of driving a few meters, stopping, getting out of the car, walking to see if it was “do-able,” realizing it is not, walking to find a new route around or through it, repeat. When we at last reached a track that headed up and out of the valley, relief and pride energized us both. I couldn’t help but to burst out with laughter.   “Two-tracks” was a foreign concept to me when I first arrived; little did I know that the mere sight of one would feel like winning a championship game.

It was hard to believe that we pulled that one off without getting stuck. Gaining new skills every day.

 

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Amphibians and AIM and everything in between

I remember reading through the CLM blog after submitting an application, feeling very curious and eager to imagine what my life could look like in just a few months. And I also remember trying to de-code all of the acronyms people were using and figure out what it was that they were doing, as I had never worked for a government agency and was fresh out of undergrad.

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running transects through a greasewood dominant plot

AIM (Assessment, Inventory and Monitoring) is a method that the BLM is now using to monitor natural resources, make better management decisions, and contribute to long-term monitoring of the land and the vegetation that occupies it.

In a nutshell: At each site, three 25-meter transects run in different directions from a central point. At multiple points along those transects, many measurements are taken such as soil stability and canopy gaps. Species richness is calculated for the site, and a 1-meter deep pit is dug to determine the composition of the horizons, the soil’s texture and color. Knowing the common species of plants in your area makes it go a lot faster, but even then, each site takes the crew about 2.5 hours, sometimes 3 (depending on how easy it is to navigate to the site). I enjoy going out with them to AIM and am starting to recognize most common species; my appreciation and admiration for both the botanists and the plants they study has grown immensely.

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my co-interns valiantly opening and closing all gates as we pass through

As the office is pressed for time to get all sites surveyed, we get the chance to help out as much as we can, even if it is just to help record data. For the most part, however, the two other wildlife interns and I are focussing on our amphibian project. We have over 200 locations that we need to navigate to and assess the quality/suitability of the habitat. Finding the locations is the most time consuming part, but also the most adventurous and fun.This need for navigation has led to daily practice with GIS/GPS software, a great skill to take with you wherever you go. Also, we are now all experts in barbed-wire fence climbing, two-track finding and gate-opening, other useful skills to have in life, certainly. IMG_1694

Often the sites we survey are stock ponds, but when we are lucky, we get to trek through stream beds and river banks searching for any life form of amphibians: egg masses, tadpoles, metamorphs, and adults. Before this internship, I did not have a lot of experience with amphibians (other than hunting for them and keeping them as pets as a kid), but have since enjoyed the opportunity to thoroughly research the biology and life history of these organisms. It’s always an exciting day when we find frogs.

Nearly all of the frogs that we have found thus far are Boreal Chorus Frogs (Pseudacris maculata). Just two days ago, my co-intern Lara found the first (what we think) Boreal Toad! It was a juvenile which made it more difficult to identify, but the red spots appear to be indicative of the western boreal (Anaxyrus boreas). Miles from any permanent source of water or forested area, we found this toad to be quite the enigma as they are generally absent from dry, shrub-steppe habitat.

In addition to the amphibians, there is undoubtedly something new to see and discover each day. Knowing this has continued to fuel a sense of wonder and curiosity, as well as eagerness to wake up and go into work each morning.

We’ve also had opportunities to participate with other spontaneous and miscellaneous projects. One of the Biologists that works permanently at the Pinedale field office, Teresa, invited us to help set up bluebird houses with the local 10th grade class. I loved the chance to interact with the community and to share some cool facts about bluebirds with the students. They all seemed eager and excited to be there, which was great to see and a blast to be a part of.

 

SOS!…….Help, with the SOS Collections

Hoping that everyone is having a wonderful summer so far!

Being stationed at the BLM in Salmon, ID as the first CLM interns in the office means that everyone is just as lost in the protocol for SOS as we are. While the workshop at the gardens helped to ease some of the confusion, going out for our first time to collect with no one but ourselves seemed like a daunting task.

Luckily the week before the workshop we went on a tour of our field office with the Idaho State Botanist, Ann DeBolt and we mentioned to her that part of our internship was to do SOS collections. She thought it was great that we were able to help out with the program. We told her that we were a little weary of starting the collections, and she had the brilliant idea to send us help.

Dick and Sandy are retirees that have been working with the SOS program in Boise, for 6 years and counting. Both have had a lifelong affair with nature. Dick worked for his whole career in the Forest Service, and Sandy’s career has been as a Botanist. Needless to say, they really know their plants. Thankfully they were able to drive up to Salmon, and stay for a few days to help us do collections.

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With their knowledge we were able to do four collections in just 2 days, and on top of that they scouted out several other sites with in our field office that would make prime collection sites. They filled the day with tips on pressing plants, soil testing, and specimen collections, they entertained us with delightful stories about their time in Idaho and their time working in the government. And their trusty side kick Casey the golden retriever gave us some much needed dog snuggles.

With their help we are now much more confident with our SOS skills, and I fully believe that this summer would not go as smoothly if it wasn’t for their initial guidance and help. Thanks again guys!

Happy collecting everyone!

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Sierra Sampson

BLM- Salmon, ID

Lessons in Optimism

Hello from New England! I am one of the Seeds of Success interns, based out of Garden in the Woods in Massachusetts, and doing seed collection on the New England coast. I’m having a fantastic time with my team and learning so much! For those of you just tuning in, here’s a little background of what we are doing: The seeds we collect will be sent to storage facilities and propagators to grow them, and eventually the plants from these seeds will be used as part of coastal restoration projects (many in areas damaged by Hurricane Sandy). By collecting seeds from large populations near the sites that will use these plants, we aim to give these projects plants that are both genetically diverse, but also representative of local genotypes and are adapted to local environmental conditions. However as it is still too early in the season, we haven’t done any seed collecting yet. Most of our time this past month has been spent learning and studying plants, and scouting out sites for future collections. We have also met with a few project managers at restoration project sites, where plants grown from our seed collections will be used. This has been an extremely valuable part of my learning experience in the internship in order to see the bigger picture of the impact our seed collection will make, and where we fit in to the whole process.

Our view while eating breakfast on our way to Stonington, CT last week. We've had a meal with a view like this almost every day in the field so far!

Our view while eating breakfast on our way to Stonington, CT last week. We’ve had a meal with a view like this almost every day in the field so far!

I especially got a lot out of our visit to a site in Stonington, CT last week. After camping over in Rhode Island last Thursday, we packed up our campsite Friday morning, grabbed some bagels, and headed to the site (not without getting slightly lost along the way of course) to meet a woman named Beth. We pulled onto a side street in an adorable little town, and were quickly met by a rocky coast heading into the water on the right. On the left, surrounded by a few houses, was the site – a sort of empty, muddy pit. The outer edges contained the typical plant life you would expect to see near the coast, however any sign of life dropped off immediately at the center of the pit.

Right side of the site - notice the distinct lack of vegetation in the center.

Right side of the site – notice the distinct lack of vegetation in the center.

The left side of the site - notice how the vegetation suddenly drops off...

The left side of the site – notice how the vegetation suddenly drops off…

Beth greeted us with a huge smile, and excitedly shared about the work she and her coworkers had been doing here. As she explained the history and ecology of the site, a daunting list of hurdles became evident:
– Problem 1: Before it was a residential community, the area was composed of many factories, including a pottery factory right on the site, which had burned down in the 1950s.
– Problem 2: After the fire, site filled in with invasive Phragmites.
– Problem 3: During strong tides, the waves came over the wall of the pit and filled it with ocean water. Having no way to retreat back to the ocean, the water evaporates, concentrating the salt into the soil.
– Problem 4: Due to the increase in development and housing, fresh water drained in from neighboring streets began to also seep in to the site.
– Problem 5: October 2012, Hurricane Sandy greatly impacted the area. However, with the hurricane came more funding to restore coastal habitat. The DEP began taking care of the Phragmites with mowing and herbiciding cycle.
– Problem 6: While the removal of the Phragmites was rather successful, the mowing and digging led to very compacted soil.
– Problem 7: After most of the Phragmites was removed, they received a grant to plant native plants at the site. They chose plants that were ideal for that kind of harsh coastal habitat, yet for some reason, these plants immediately and very drastically died. Soil tests revealed one of the main impacts of Problem 1 from the factories – the soil had very high lead content.

Healthy patches of Solidago sempervirens (seaside goldenrod) along the edge of the site. This is a common coastal plant that is normally very hearty.

Healthy patches of Solidago sempervirens (seaside goldenrod) along the edge of the site.

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A very unhappy Solidago sempervirens, less than a foot away from the healthy patch in the picture above. This is a common coastal plant that normally can withstand very aggressive conditions.

Just when it seemed like Beth and her team were making progress, they were catapulted back to square 1. Essentially, they needed to find several plants that would grow well in soil with high salt content, freshwater as well as tidal influx, salt spray off the ocean, high lead content, and compacted soil – not to mention the very particular aesthetic of the neighbors that needed to be satisfied. Budgets and grants also had to be considered… If anyone reading this knows where we can find magical super-plants that meet all of these requirements, please let us know. You may become a millionaire. Or at least be crowned King/Queen of Conservation. In the meantime, Beth has been planting plugs of the grass Spartina patens, and has had some moderate success. Yet to top it all off, the local crows have decided to start a game with Beth and began pulling up the plugs and dropping them a few feet away to dry out in the sun.

Some of the planted plugs of Spartina patens doing well, closer to the coast line.

Some of the planted plugs of Spartina patens doing well, closer to the coast line.

I need to pause here to appreciate Beth’s optimism. As if this site wasn’t already a seemingly complete disaster with no straight answer to bring it back to a healthy ecosystem, the crows pulling out the plugs was just the icing on the cake. I know if it were me, that would have tipped me over the edge. However Beth saw this as just another piece of the puzzle to be solved.

Pile of plugs we collected. After we left, Beth took these all back to her house to water them and soak them in a nutrient solution. She planned to plant them in deeper the next day to hopefully prevent the crows from pulling them up again.

Pile of Spartina patens plugs we collected. After we left, Beth took these all back to her house to water them and soak them in a nutrient solution. She planned to plant them in deeper the next day to hopefully prevent the crows from pulling them up again.

Near the end of our time with Beth, we helped her pick up the Spartina plugs scattered by the crows. As we gently gathered the plugs one by one, I looked around at the site and felt what I’m sure is a piece of what keeps Beth going at this site. When you are in the mundane of work like that, it is sometimes hard to remember why you are there in the first place. Yet with the perspective that your work is a small thread connected to other small threads, working and weaving together to create a tapestry of something bigger than ourselves, your purpose becomes clear. Conservation is one of those fields that requires extreme, almost illogical optimism, and a willingness to fight for something that you may not see the end result of in your lifetime. I am grateful to have seen this perspective in action, and hope to apply it to the rest of my field season.

Signing off with peace, love, and lots of plants,

Krista Heilmann

Seeds of Success Intern

New England Wild Flower Society, Framingham, MA

The Desert Lessons

A few days I ago I was making the long morning drive to Needles, and I passed a coyote walking down the side of the road. It was shortly after 6am and slightly under 100F, a quiet morning of sun and highway. He barely flinched as I drove past him pushing 60, like he knew I was there to just pass by.

It’s hot here in the Mojave. We love to talk about it. You know when you’re baking and you open the oven? The feeling of the heat rushing over your face and arms? It’s a little like that. It’s astonishing, and only harsh in the forgivable kind of way.
Some days we drive two, three hours to our field site. Those days, emerging from air-conditioning and drive-induced daydreams, the hot desert wind goes right through me. Like it sees all the other places my mind goes, and it wants to ground me. It works, mostly. It’s humbling, and I’m thankful.
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The creosote blooms, and fruits, and blooms again. Soon the monsoon season will be upon us, meeting the desert with an abounding sizzle.

Occasionally I like to read the horoscopes over on the Toast. They’re always peaceful and inspiring, and they help me zoom out and see the bigger picture. Here is a chunk of mine from June: Think how lucky we are: life is vast, on a scale we cannot imagine, but it isn’t infinite. These summer days might stretch out as far as you can see, but you don’t have to do everything there is to do in this world. You don’t have to be everything to everyone; you don’t even have to be everything to yourself.
I think I’m in the middle of learning a lot of lessons, but I’m still in that milky stage where I feel as if I’m falling short. But then: you don’t have to be everything to everyone. You don’t even have to be everything to the desert.
 
You can only live your own life, strange and specific and sweet.
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So, I zoom out. I see the the vast expanse of creosote, the unrelenting yet forgivable heat, and the extraordinary life that grows here. I see a lot of heart. I think about all the thousands of years of these cycles, of the creosote blooming and fruiting and blooming and sizzle. And I think about that coyote, who saw all along that I’m just passing through.
Kate Sinnott
Sensitive & Invasive Plant Monitoring Intern
Needles Field Office
Bureau of Land Management

Benson Farms, Inc… the next step for our seeds?

The other week, I had the unique opportunity to join native plant specialists from all over the western region on a guided tour of a privatized native plant material center.   Federal organizations came in from all over the west to witness first-hand the detailed process that Jerry Benson and his staff are working on to provide generations with native seed for restoration projects.  The first day on the tour of Benson Farms Inc. we were shown five restoration fields that ranged in age from 4 year plots all the way to a 15 year plot.  These restoration sites focused on using native bunch grasses, specifically Bluebunch wheatgrass, Pseudoroegneria spicata, as well as forbs to naturally outcompete fields of invasive cheat grass and crested wheatgrass.

4 Year Plot

4 Year Plot

 

The restoration fields require a lot of prep work. Jerry’s crew literally scrapes the land clean; harrowing, mowing, spraying and harrowing again.  It is very extensive, but in the end it pays off, and he is able to show within 15 years how a field of native plants can take over and clear out a huge vast wasteland of cheat grass and crested wheatgrass.  Fields upon fields of this stuff is  reverted right in front of your eyes like some skeptical magic trick.

10 year Plot

10 year Plot

The results were astonishing. Upon starting my current internship with the BLM in Wenatchee, WA, cheat grass was noted to me as a hopeless invasive because it has already infiltrated so many microhabitats that are deemed irreversible due to lack of money and time. And here I am witnessing site after site where native species are claiming back their take on the land, and within 15 years (which, well, does seem long, except for in the eyes of a restoration biologist)!

If that wasn’t enough, Benson Farms Inc. continued their tour the next day through their fields of native plant grow outs and forb production facilities. Have you ever seen rows upon rows, and whole fields just filled with native plants?  It gave any plant lover a sheer chill of excitement that lasted them at least through the weekend.

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Benson Farms Inc. notices how crucial the end result is, so they take better care in the initial production stages as well as during the critical seed production years. They have an incredible success rate, which seems to carry their reputation above the rest of the native plant material centers and why they are so heavily utilized across the western states. They put in the extra effort to make sure the seed fulfills its full potential and makes it to a restoration site.

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The lack of demand still makes this avenue a very unaffordable option for the grower. Jerry and his company are becoming nationally recognized, yet he still has his staple agricultural crops that he produces in order to make enough money.  Native plants unfortunately don’t provide this, due to lack of demand.

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I hope Benson Farms Inc. is just the beginning for native plant material centers in the private industry, and its success rate will spark people to increase the demand for such an operation. I learned how many people in my field desire to work in such a facility.  We realize that change starts with the seed, and we need a means to increase the seed.  So let’s keep collecting the native seeds and increase their propagation, in order to better conserve all natives.

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Calo Girl Signing Out….

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Caves and Carlsbad

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It’s hard to believe I’ve only been working in Carlsbad, New Mexico for three weeks as it’s gone by in a flash. My first week at the BLM here in Carlsbad was mostly spent training on things such as field safety when Hydrogen Sulfide is a fearsome risk and getting to know the lovely people in the office. While a lot of my days that first week were spent learning how not to die in a freak lightning storm, on Friday we got to go caving with Jim and Stan from the cave department. The BLM in Carlsbad not only has two CLM interns for the next five months, but also interns through a program called HACU who will be with us until August. Our caving experience was wild, and took us through relatively tall passages with breathtaking evidence of the water that flows through the caves at varying levels, to passes where we found ourselves on our hands and knees in the thickest of mud. At one point in the cave, we sat and turned off our headlamps to experience the total and complete darkness, which was incredibly peaceful though somewhat eerie. As we neared the exit, we found ourselves flat on our bellies in a very tight space, slowly attempting to exit the cave. Claustrophobia, spiders, crickets, an alarmed pack rat momma, and rapidly ensuing panic made for a very tense atmosphere as we waited for each person to wriggle out of the tiny opening that was the cave’s exit.

Here you can see the tiny little cave opening we crawled out of

Here you can see the tiny little cave opening we crawled out of

After an eventful Friday in the field, it was time to head off to Chicago for the training workshop. Being surrounded by so many other plant and wildlife enthusiasts was very refreshing, as was a break from the 100 degree desert weather back in Carlsbad. The Chicago Botanic Garden provided a labyrinth of botanical beauty to discover, from a tiny model railroad garden to a captivating butterfly garden.

One of the magnificent butterflies found at the garden

One of the magnificent butterflies found at the garden

Before I knew it, it was time to say goodbye to Chicago and return to the desert. The second week at the BLM allowed for more field excursions, this time with visiting botanists and interns from Taos and Las Cruces. This allowed us to become familiar with many of the local plants, which I was largely unfamiliar with having moved to New Mexico from Tennessee. It also allowed us to visit future collection sites, collect vouchers for flowering target species, and note populations that were soon to be ready to have seed collected.

Centaurium

Centaurium

Monarda punctata

Monarda punctata

Hymenopappus flavescens + Phasmatidae!

Hymenopappus flavescens + Phasmatidae!

The most recent week here at the BLM concluded in completing our defensive driving course and taking the truck out in the field for the first time on our own. Our mentor, Johnny, made sure to teach us how to change a tire before letting us set off into the desert alone.

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Learning how to change a tire on a 4×4 truck!

I’m very excited for my next week in Carlsbad, where we will be setting up pitfall traps to determine the absence/presence of lizard species in certain locations.

Meridith McClure- Carlsbad, New Mexico BLM

Portland, Santa Fe, Chicago, and Santa Fe

The month of June has been full of variety for me. I left my Portland, OR home in the mossy, forested Pacific Northwest on the last day of May, and began a 1900 mile driving adventure to the desert southwest. After a refreshing soak at Summer Lake hot springs, a stunningly beautiful stay in the Ruby Mountains, crossing the Great Salt Lake desert, and a slow and reflective drive through the Four Corners area, the adobe town of Santa Fe and the southernmost Rockies greeted me with thunder and lightning.

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Our first opportunistic seed collection was from a small mustard yet to be identified to species

I had only a week to adjust to a new climate, landscape, and people before flying to the midwestern city of Chicago for the CLM training. Between sessions, we had the opportunity to explore the Chicago Botanic Garden in its entirety. My favorite area was the arid greenhouse, letting me know that my tugging desire to live and work in the southwest was well-founded, and giving me the opportunity to meet dry-adapted carbon-fixers from all around the earth.

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Cactus flower at the Chicago Botanic Garden

Back in my new home of Santa Fe, I joined with a large and diverse group of people for our regional training. A fellow CLM intern, an ACE (American Conservation Experience) intern, and I will be working closely with interns and employees from the IAE’s (Institute for Applied Ecology) Southwest Program. To begin our summer together, we camped in the Valles Caldera, a dormant, enormous, and beautiful volcano in the Jemez Mountains. With the help of Steve Buckley (National Park Service botanist), we sharpened our botanical skills and began to learn New Mexico’s flora.

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New Mexican beauty, Tsankawi ruins. A short hike break on our drive back from training at Valles Caldera.

After several weeks of travel and training, I am looking forward to a summer and fall spent exploring New Mexico, collecting seed from plants and places I have yet to meet, and honing my botanical skills!

Laura Holloway

Santa Fe (New Mexico State Office), BLM

Sunny days in Susanville, CA

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Susanville from Road 139After 3,000 miles and a mid-trip flight back to Chicago for the CLM workshop, I am finally in Susanville, CA. Training in Chicago seems like a lifetime ago, but I feel lucky to have had the training before I got to my field office. It is hot, dry, and sunny every day here, but thankfully the nights are wonderfully cool. There are still a few patches of snow on top of the Diamond mountain ridge and people in the office are betting on when the last snow will disappear. Susanville is in a unique location at the edge of the Sierra Nevada’s (Lassen national forest) and the Great Basin. There are so many places to explore in the area, so it will definitely be a busy summer. I am really excited to hike and explore a bunch of the other small lakes, reservoirs, and some of the small western towns. My other co-interns have not arrived yet, so the past four days I have spent helping other seasonal BLM workers. On the first day I went out in the field with Julie, a seasonal worker whose project is focused on juniper surveys. Julie’s project is aimed at providing ground measurements of junipers to use to help verify how junipers appear in aerial photographs (junipers have their own spectral signature which can differentiate them from other plants). Junipers have greatly expanded their range in the past 100 years due to suppressed fire regimes, and can create dry conditions that are hard on endemic plants and sagebrush. Hopefully the juniper surveys will be helpful to use for estimating juniper cover using imagery. The views on the drive up out of town on 139 offered great views of the Diamond and Thompson mountains. We turned off of 139 and drove up Horse Lake road (536) towards Black Mountain and hiked to find two random plots. The random plots are 60 meters in diameter. Measurements of any juniper in the plot include height (measured with laser), canopy width (measured in 2 cross points), diameter at root base, as well as a location point. Being with Julie is pretty great because she has experience identifying plants from working in the Great Basin. I was scribbling down plant names and trying to repeat them in my head the whole time we were out.

I also had the chance to go out with Jessie, a seasonal worker who is examining and documenting the status of BLM water rights. I knew I was going to write this blog, and on my second day when we finally got out of the office driving out on 139 after some Trimble issues, Jessie was glad to stop at the view point for me to snap a picture of the beautiful view I had seen driving out the previous day with Julie. Though she’s lived here for a while she said she had never taken the time to actually stop! We spent our time up on the east side of Eagle Lake, which is north of Susanville. Some of these stock ponds have not been visited or monitored since the 1960’s, but the drought conditions have brought attention back to their importance. It’s been quite the adventure to ride along these two track roads. I feel like we should be in a truck commercial. After locating the stock pond we measure the water, take a point, take photos, and document what the water is like and if we see any wildlife. We saw a gadwall duck with ducklings in one of the stock ponds, as well as a handful of mountain bluebirds and one crusty rancher guy. Jessie says there are 883 water right locations for the Eagle Lake Field Office, which add up to a lot of points to go out and find, especially since some of them are not that accurate. The second stock pond was over 150 meters from its location on the Trimble. With the field work for both Julie and Jessie’s projects, there is something really special about going out to find a random point and taking time to observe a specific area where many people will never go. 

The field work has been fun, and I have already learned a lot of dos and don’ts. Hiking boots are an absolute necessity and ones that are all leather won’t fall victim to being attacked by pointy cheat grass seeds. Insulated water bottles are wonderful because everything heats up like crazy in the truck and nothing tastes better than cold tea or water. Never think about wearing shorts. For some reason, before I came out here I thought I might wear shorts on some days, but after being in the field for 1 minute I realized that is a very foolish thought. Driving out here also has its differences. First of all, there is a lot of dust. It would never have occurred to me to slow down while passing a ranch so as not to dust the house. The mosaic of private and public land gives you one more consideration to make before parking the truck before hiking to access some location, which is another consideration that would not have naturally occurred to me. After growing up in New England where entire roads are covered by deciduous trees, I have found shade on the roads and paths to be quite meager here. You sure can see for miles though! Experiencing the concept of the open range is also new to me. It remains somewhat puzzling to me when I see one cow out in the middle of nowhere. Driving up past Horse Lake was the first time I had seen a big dry lake. The shades of green, yellow and brown are quite beautiful in their own way. The colors look like more of a tray of mixed yellow, brown, and green water colors than the deep blues I am used to associating with the term ‘lake’ in the east. Water in the desert is pretty special. It is amazing to come down a dry, rocky ravine and find a creek with cattails and mud that you never could have imagined in the hot, dry desert. 

To mark an end to my first week after days in the field with Julie, Jessie, and then Julie, I went out with Clif, the forester in the office. We drove up the ever more familiar Horse Lake road north of town, but this time we drove across the dried lake up on to the lower parts of Fredonyer mountain (around 7000 ft). The increase in junipers in the area is important to the work that Clif does, because larger junipers kill the sage brush underneath them and they can create big, hot fires that can become serious monsters. After growing up in the east, the thought of fires burning huge numbers of acres seems crazy, but a lot of things are just bigger out here. The Rush fire in 2012 was a massive fire that burned a significant amount along the ridges of the mountains east of 395. Clif explained that while fire regimes are natural here, fire cannot be used as a cheaper method to control the junipers at later growth stages because the fires will burn so hot that they will kill everything. Management options are limited to hand thinning, which reduces the disruption of the soil (this is important around sage grouse leks),  and full on removal with skid roads, which chew up the dirt and create conditions for cheat grass to invade. Going up to Craemer spring and Fredonyer reservoir was quite magical because this was another one of the few places I have seen a gurgling stream and standing blue water. Leaving Fredonyer reservoir Clif started walking off at an angle from where we entered and I followed him. Situational awareness is pretty important out here in the big sky country. When we got back to the sage brush I said, “Where are we going?” He answered, “Where is the truck?” He was just testing my directional awareness, and I was able to point in the direction of the truck and guide us back. Clif thought we might see a rattle snake up along the old stone wall line we were walking to scout for a landing for the next juniper removal, but alas I have managed to get out of four days in the field without seeing a rattlesnake yet. I have seen several pronghorn, marmots, and cottontails. I am still looking forward to seeing a sage grouse at some point. Hopping out of the truck to open and close 6 barbed wire gates along our drive seems like a natural rhythm to break up the drive now. Clif gave me a quick tutorial on the radio and then we finished our tour driving out the end of Horse Lake road to 395 where we drove south back towards Susanville and passed another BLM fire station. We drove past a chipping plant in Wendel, where all of the small junipers are taken to be turned into wood chips. During a power outage in recent years, Clif said the wood chips from this plant were used to power Susanville for a few days! Unfortunately the plant is up for some sort of re-licensing, which will hopefully go through, otherwise there will be some issues with dealing with the medium sized juniper waste. Leaving it chopped to dry up in the field is not a viable option because this would mean more dense fuel on the ground, but the other facilities are 300 to 400 miles away. Driving back into town I got my first real view of Lassen, which honestly almost blended into the sky because of how much snow is on it still! The BLM also manages the land along the scenic Bizz Johnson trail, which runs near the Susan River, and Clif was kind enough to take me over to Pigeon Cliffs to get a great view. Meeting new people in the office who have ended up in Susanville too is really wonderful. I can see that one of the most valuable things from the internship will be experiencing a new place to the most of its entirety possible. As thankful as I am to see a new part of the country, it is also nice to hear that BLM employees like Clif think it’s refreshing to have new people from different parts of the country in the office too. I am looking forward to all of the people and plants that will be on my path through the next five months. 

Hopefully we will be able to go out on some days and continue helping Julie, Jessie, and Clif with their projects. While my first four days have been a whirlwind, Susanville is growing on me and the office is feeling more familiar. I have a great feeling about what’s to come and I am gaining an appreciation for all of the beauty and surprises in the high desert. My brain is hurting a bit from all of the new plant names that I am starting to learn. My favorite grass so far is Briza maxima (rattlesnake grass). It even makes a little rattling sound in the wind. The nuances between different sagebrush are becoming clearer, and I am able to identify some of the flowering forbs. It is really fun to see so many new and different plants, as well as completely new scenery. This first week is flying by and I’m excited for my team of SOS interns to get started here soon. On Thursdays there is goaltimate frisbee up at the field on the track at Lassen College. The scenery is quite something from this spot; the views of the Diamond mountains and Thompson Peak are pretty nice. I met two former CLM interns who are still working in a related field in the area, one of whom was hired by the BLM. After a bunch of sweat, sage smells, dirt, dust, views, cheat grass, sunscreen, meter tape reeling, barbed wire gates, and Trimble time, I feel well primed to jump forward to what lies ahead. 

Alia 

BLM Eagle Lake Field Office

Susanville, CA 

The northeast corner of Eagle Lake from a BLM road while checking stock ponds.

The northeast corner of Eagle Lake from a BLM road while checking stock ponds.

Crest Collections

Hello faithful readers, it is officially summer! Though it has felt like summer here in the Mojave for quite a while now. In each blog post, I have been tempted to write about the heat. Every time, I think “surely it can’t get any hotter than this” and yet the temperature continues to climb. So although the thermometers have scaled to new heights this week with temperatures over 110 degrees Fahrenheit (a personal record for me), I doubt the heat’s full ambition has been realized. Not to worry though because, to quote the cliché, “it’s a dry heat.” Being from the Midwest, where the summer humidity often teeters around ninety percent, this was always a mysterious phrase. It does make quite a difference though! In the dessert, you feel as though you are being slowly baked in an oven, as opposed to melted in a sauna. You are not perpetually sticky and things like shade and sweat are actually effective coolants. Nonetheless, I am grateful for a bit of office work when it comes my way!

In the last month we have put the “petal” to the metal and hit a crest in our seed collection numbers with six new collections. The heat has driven us up in elevation or into shaded canyons. Thus two of our collections are from Surprise Canyon in Panamint Valley, just west of Death Valley. Spoiler alert: the surprise in Surprise Canyon is water! There is a spring-fed creek that winds its way down the base of the canyon. But the canyon also concealed a few other surprises, including a couple of rusted trucks. We were entirely baffled as to how the trucks got in there in the first place because our hike involved a fair amount of scrambling and climbing. No matter how high your clearance is, a truck could not have made it up. Yet a road used to lead up to a small city, so the most plausible explanation is that the road was washed out by a flash flood. The second surprise was a healthy population of Epipactis gigantea, stream orchid. Lucky for us each fruit contains an insane amount of seeds (at least thousands) which makes for a simple collection!

4A

One of Surprise Canyon’s surprises.

4B

Stream orchid (Epipactis gigantea) seed capsules and their thousands of microscopic  seeds.

 

We completed another two collections up at Walker Pass, along the Pacific Crest Trail in the Southern Sierra Nevada Mountains. Our first collection there was Ericameria linearifolia, narrowleaf goldenbush. Since there are plenty of ericameria species to go around and (in my novice opinion) a solid assortment of look-alike species, it took us a few tries with the key to figure out what we were collecting! We enjoyed the area so much and there were so many species fruiting, that we decided to go back for another collection, this time of Chaentactis xantiana, Xantus pincushion. The pinyon pines and junipers were a welcome reprieve from the stretches of low-lying shrubs. Plus, plenty of hikers passed us along the trail and spiced-up our days. It was neat to meet thru-hikers and hear their stories. Some were even curious what we were up to and we explained that we were collecting native seeds for long term storage, research, and conservation projects.

4C

The view from Walker Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail.

4D

A brilliantly-colored caterpillar exploring our target species, narrowleaf goldenbush (Ericameria linearifolia).

4G

We finally met a member of the celebrity calochortus genus, Calochortus invenustus, (Plain Mariposa Lily).

For an even more drastic break from the desert, we traveled to Chicago for the CLM internship workshop hosted at the Chicago Botanic Gardens. There we welcomed grass, trees, and, yes, even the humidity with open arms! Overall, the workshop was a grand time, every day jammed-packed with information and new faces, leaving me exhausted and inspired. The workshop included a symposium focused around “seed sourcing for restoration in a changing climate.” I enjoyed hearing a spectrum of perspectives from academia to government to private business. The speakers helped give context to the seed collections I am personally contributing. We also learned about conservation genetics and monitoring methods, or as I like to put it, the science behind wandering around in the desert. Even though I have already been learning on the job many of the things taught in the workshop, there were still plenty of new tips. It was also valuable confirmation that we have been doing our job right! One of the most exciting parts of the week was meeting interns from all over the country, currently scattered across the western United States. I enjoyed swapping field stories and sharing the personal histories that landed us in conservation. Generally, the week gave me a greater understanding of the scope and purpose of the CLM program.

4E

Chicago skyline on a lovely afternoon in Lincoln Park.

4F

CLMer’s waste no time in trying out their new found monitoring skills.

And back to some heated collections!

E. O’Connell
Ridgecrest BLM Office