Reflections during the last days in the Bitterroot


Eliza and I are ending our term in one week. October has been the quickest month of all. It started by saying goodbye to our co-intern, Li, and finished with matching alien Halloween costumes. Now, snow covers the tops of the mountains, and the fall leaves lose their last bit of color. Despite the turn towards winter, there was still a lot to do this month.

At the beginning of October, Eliza and I went out with hydrology to do water sampling. We drove out to this little creek on some private property. We hiked to a shallow creek that flowed through tall grasses and shrubs. To set up our equipment, two people ran a tape measure across the stream while the others set up the probe and the flow-measurer, which was this fancy-looking stick with a fan on the end. We measured the depth and flow across the stream, and recorded temperature, pH, and dissolved oxygen levels.

By measuring the flow and the depth, the hydrologists can calculate the water discharge. The water samples are tested for nutrient levels, which when multiplied by water discharge, shows the pollution effect on the Bitterroot River. depth x flow = discharge discharge x nutrient levels = stream’s pollution effect on Bitterroot River

Streams have a total maximum daily load, which is how much nutrients can be in a stream and not harm the wildlife and plants. So, by measuring the nutrient levels, depth, and flow, they can determine if the total maximum daily load is being exceeded.

After using the fancy probe, we took two water samples. The samples are sent to a lab and tested for nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus. One water sample was taken straight from the creek, and the other was filtered. The filter removes the particulate nitrogen (nitrogen attached to sediment or organic matter) and leaves any dissolved nitrogen.

The dissolved nitrogen is more readily usable to organisms than particulate nitrogen, so its effect in the stream is greater. This means knowing the total nitrogen levels (unfiltered sample) and the dissolved nitrogen levels (filtered sample) is important to tell the whole story.

We also learned that phosphorus is often attached to particles in the stream bed, whereas nitrogen is more often dissolved and easily flows downstream. This means if a stream is being polluted at one location (dumping sewage or agriculture runoff), the high levels of nitrogen and phosphorus can have different effects. Because nitrogen is less “sticky,” it can cause more issues downstream than at the source of the pollution. Because phosphorus is “sticky” it can accumulate at the source of pollution, and can’t be washed away.


Another cross-training we did was a soils survey for a proposed fuel break. For the survey, we walked along a transect line and dug a hole every 200ft. In the hole we recorded the top layer (duff, moss, bare soil), and the presence of roots, charcoal, rocks, and mycorrhizae.

Andrea, the soils technician, also needed to determine the soil texture. She would feel the dirt and declare it as loam or sandy loam or even silty loam. The way she described learning the soil textures reminded me of the way I’ve learned the plants here. After feeling the soil so many times, she developed a sense of what each soil type feels like without being able to articulate it explicitly. This is how I feel about distinguishing grasses or Asteraceae species. When I see them, I know who they are (or at least who they are not), but when I try to describe the leaf blade angles or the shape of the bracts, the differences become hard to explain.


With Botany, the last weeks of October have been dedicated to planting pollinator islands. The area where we established the pollinator islands burned in the Trail Ridge wildfire in 2022. Right now, it looks quite destitute with blackened trees and bare soil, but apparently, bumblebees like to make their nests in areas with exposed soil and downed trees. However, the bees need a food source, and currently, the vegetation is lacking. So, the idea with the pollinator islands is to provide food sources in areas where bees might like to nest.

Eliza and I with our hoedads

In each pollinator island, we planted 188 plants. We used hoedads, which is a tool I had never heard of but made the planting fairly easy. Unfortunately, in the past, the plugs haven’t always survived very well. In order to find and track plug survival in the following years, we measured each plug’s distance to the center and the azimuth. This was a lot of measuring, but I got much better at using a compass!

However, during this project, we were racing the season change. The temperatures were dropping, and we wanted to get the plugs in the ground before it froze. We encountered two snowy days, one of which resulted in having to turn around after enjoying cups of hot chocolate, and the other required sifting through the snow to get the plants in the ground before it was too late.

Overall, I really enjoyed this project. While collecting seed is important, we don’t get to see the positive effects. The work for this project felt very tangible and it was fun to directly change the land.

Hot chocolate break

Our second to last weekend Eliza and I hiked Trapper Peak, the tallest peak in the Bitterroot range at 10,157ft. Its stark silhouette always inspired awe and mystery, and after talking about hiking it the entire time we’ve been here, we were finally ready.

Trapper peak

We started at dawn and hiked up with the sun as it rose over the valley below. Soon, the navy sky lightened and the pinpricks of remaining stars faded. We kept passing lookout spots for this wide canyon. At first the view of this canyon was a dark abyss, then it turned monochrome-blue with the morning, and finally, the sun peaked over the Sapphires on the eastern edge of the Bitterroot valley and cast a magnificent fiery light onto the tips of the peaks.

We hiked up and up, removing layers as we got hot from the incline and putting them back on as the altitude sucked the heat from the air. Eventually, we made it past the tree line. The summit was in sight, across a large talus field. We scrambled and hopped across rocks, and eventually made it to the very top.

The view was beyond incredible. We could see everything: the bubbling hills of the Sapphires, the harsh canyons that line the valley, the dense forests of the West fork, and a new view of the jagged peaks that stretched, seemingly forever, to the west. It truly did feel like we were on top of the world.

And what an amazing way to end our experience here, to stand at the peak of the mountain that we have seen almost daily, the peak that towers over the rest of the valley, that seems so grand and inaccessible standing below it. Standing at the top of Trapper, it felt like I was looking at every field day, rare-plant survey, and seed collection all at once. From the top, we could see the entire valley: highway 93, the river lined with cottonwoods, the farms and ranches spread onto the slopes of each side of the valley. It seemed like a perfect place to live.


This experience has been so amazing and I have learned so much. My first week here I was so overwhelmed with moving to a new place and learning so many new plants, but what was strange at first soon became comfortable and familiar.

At first, the dry air seemed to steal all the water from my nose and throat, but eventually, I came to appreciate the lack of sticky summer air that I was used to. At first, unfamiliar shapes and patterns of plants surrounded me. Now I can walk through the forest and call out the names of plants around me. At first, the town of 800 that Eliza and I call home seemed oppressively small, but I quickly found comfort in the simplicity of being a short walk to the grocery store or solitude at the river.

I got so lucky with my co-interns and botany team, and they were such an amazing part of the experience. I am so grateful for my time here and everything I’ve learned about plants and about myself. I will greatly miss the beauty and serenity of this valley, but I am looking forward to being home.

– Cicely

Smokey Collection:

Sunrise and sunset collection:

Plant collection:

Amazing view collection:

Berries, Seeds, and Penstemon Measuring

September has really started to feel like fall. Skeletons and ghosts are showing up in people’s yards. The greens have started to fade to gold and orange. The mornings are crisp, and the days are getting shorter, which has made making waking up much harder but has also resulted in seeing some beautiful sunrises.

This month has been full of seed collecting. We’ve continued to collect berries, and one of my favorite’s has been mountain ash, Sorbus scopulina. To me, the bright orange berries seemed to have come out of nowhere. Two months ago, the drainages and damp hills were a web of dark green, but now the mountain ash berries peek from the foliage and look like little gems in the sun.

Another fun collection has been rabbitbrush, or Ericameria nauseosa. It grows as a shrub in exposed and dry areas. It blooms a golden yellow, and as it goes to seed, turns fluffy and white from the pappus (hairs) on the seeds. It is fun to collect because it is easy to get a lot of it! The shrubs are fairly large and produce a lot of seed, and usually many shrubs grow together. In one day, Eliza and I ended up with a haul of thirteen bags!

In addition to seed collection, Eliza and I got to help with a whitebark pine survey at the Lost Trail Ski Resort. Whitebark pines (pinus albicaulis) are a threatened species that grow at high altitudes. The ski resort proposed new ski runs and lifts, and our job was to count the number of whitebark pine in the area to help them manage the new developments in accordance with the guidelines for threatened species protection. Whitebark pines have five needles per bunch (fascicle), which is how we could tell them apart from lodgepole pine, which also grows at high altitude but only has two needles per fascicle. Most of the trees were small, less than five feet, and blended in with the lodgepole seedlings, but we counted over 100 trees in about 10 acres.


Something that has been less exciting about September was the smoke. There were a few fires in the Bitterroot Valley that made for a very smoky couple of weeks. It was a bummer to look outside and not be able to see the mountains across from us. The smoky days felt somewhat like rainy days because we were stranded inside, but they were not at all cozy. Fortunately, we were out of town and (less fortunately) staying home with COVID for some of the worst of it. The benefit of the smoke was that when it cleared, I had a renewed appreciation and awe when seeing the mountains.


This past week, we went to Coeur d’Alene to visit our region’s nursery. It has been really cool to see how our seed collections are used. The nursery had rows and rows of plants being grown out for seed transfer zone studies. These seed transfer zone studies compare morphological data to find patterns and delineations between populations that then become seed zones. This is important because seeds taken from one place within a seed zone will likely grow well (and be well adapted) when planted in other parts of the seed zone. They also grow seeds out for seed increase, meaning they use wildland seed collections to grow plants, then collect seeds from those plants, increasing the total amount of seed from that population or species. Nathan, the seed transfer zone manager, told us that often with the wildland collections start as a handful of seed, but after the seed increase plantings they collect pounds and pounds of it.

Coeur d’Alene Nursery Seed Transfer Zone plots

Our job at the nursury was to measure a ton of Penstemon procerus plants. There are four rows that are called “repetitions” and one row on each side to act as a buffer to prevent any outer rows from experiencing an edge effect. For our measurements, we assessed overall plant vigor, counted flower heads, measured the overall plant width and basal leaf height, and measured the dimensions of an average leaf. After about 10 plants I realized it was going to be a long day of sitting on the ground, bending over plants, and counting.

The work was very repetitive, and Hannah and I tried many things to make the work more exciting and comfortable. We played music, found different things to sit on, had reward cheez-its, and made up different stretches to ease our aching backs. Despite the tediousness, it was satisfying to get more efficient at the measurements and see us slowly creeping towards the end of the row.

Another major operation in the nursery is to grow conifer seedlings. The nursery receives 3000 bushels of cones each year that they process, store, and save for future planting. To extract the seeds from the cones, they dry the cones over kilns. Once the cones are dry, the scales open and the seeds easily fall out. The seeds are stored in barrels and kept in a freezer until they are grown out in the greenhouses. According to Nathan, they have enough conifer seeds stored in freezers to keep producing 5 million seedlings a year for 10 years!

Seed cleaning machines — each machine has a specific size, shape, and gravity of seed it can clean.

The nursery greenhouses are full of baby trees that come from the processed cones. In total, they grow around 3.5 million trees every year, which are then sold to be planted in the forests again. One of the trees they grow is whitebark pine, around 150,000 seedlings each year. Nathan said they are difficult to grow, as they are slow growing, don’t germinate well, and are very sensitive to heat.

In addition to growing whitebark pine seedlings, they’re also breeding resistance to whitebark pine blister rust. They collect and sow seeds from “parent” trees that appear to be resistant to the fungus. Then they expose the offspring to blister rust spores (10-20x the fungal spore amount than they would be exposed to in the wild). The percentage of blister rust resistant offspring determines the strength of parent tree resistance. Highly resistant trees are then bred with other trees to increase the number of blister rust resistant whitebark pines, hopefully slowing their decline.

Whitebark pine seedlings

Time seems to be moving much faster the longer I am here, and I can’t believe I’m approaching the last month of the program. I continue to learn so much and I’m looking forward to more seed collections, another visit to Coeur d’Alene, and more whitebark pine surveys.

Cicely

Berries, Monitoring, and Cross-training

We completed our last rare plant survey in July, and August has been taken over by seed collection and vegetation monitoring.

One of my favorite seeds to collect has been Oregon grape. By the end of July the thick, leathery leaves had turned a fiery orange and the pale green clump of berries darkened to a beautiful matte blue. When collecting the berries, they make a satisfying “click” when pulled from their stalk. After awhile I’d have a paper bag slumping with the weight of all the berries.

Oregon grape, Berberis repens

Other berries we’ve collected have been kinnikinnick, snowberries, and black currants.

Our first priority for seed collection are species in the East Bulk seed mix. This mix is a new iteration of the Seed Transfer Zone seed mix, which was previously used for revegetation seeding. Both the East Bulk and Seed Transfer Zone seed mixes are full of “work horse species” that are ideal for colonizing disturbed land and making it more suitable for other species to grow later. For the East Bulk seed mix, seeds are collected across multiple forests and grown out at the Coeur d’Alene nursery with the goal of increasing genetic diversity of seed collections.

Phacelia hastata, a species in the East Bulk seed mix

One thing that is somewhat frustrating about seed collecting is the amount of paperwork required for each seed collection. On our tablets we make a point or polygon on the map and fill out information about the watershed, aspect, elevation, collection purpose, and associated species. Then we fill out a FACTS form which is used to help determine funding and to be able to connect the seed collection to the point on the arcGIS map. Then we fill out a Short Form which is sent with the seeds to the nursery in Coeur d’Alene. We also fill out a tag to put directly on the bag so we can keep track of them as they pile up in the office. While it does take awhile, I see how useful it can be to have multiple ways to keep track of a bunch of information.

Safety first!

We have also been doing some cross training with other departments this month.

With hydrology, we went electrofishing, which is one method for surveying for fish. We were doing a general presence-absence survey to see which species were in the stream and got measurements for the biggest and smallest fish of each species we caught. Electrofishing uses metal wands that shock the fish and allow a netter to scoop them up. We learned that many creeks in the Bitterroot mountains are very low conductivity because the dissolved minerals from granite do not ionize. In medium or high conductivity water, the fish get attracted to and “frozen” in the ring of the wand. But in low conductivity, the shockers don’t work that well, so we improvised by stunning the fish with the shockers and using our nets to block parts of the stream.

We were very excited when we caught a bull trout, which are a threatened species. According to the US Fish and Wildlife Service, bull trout live in cold, clean, complex, and connected habitats, which includes mountain streams and Bitterroot River. The hydrologists told us that some bull trout stay in one stream their whole life, and others are migratory. But, the rising temperatures of the streams, dams and water diversions, and water usage that drains the river damages bull trout habitat. Now these fish only rarely occur in the Bitterroot river. However, the one we caught was not messing around—while in the bucket it tried to eat another fish!

Our other cross training was with archaeology, surveying cambium peeled trees. According to Meghan and Matt, the archaeologists we went out with, the trees at this site were most likely peeled by the Bitterroot Salish and Nez Perce between the 1860’s and the 1910’s, though this practice has been around for thousands of years. In the spring they would peel the outer bark from the tree and eat the inner cambium layer which is a rich source of carbohydrates. For the survey we measured tree diameter at breast height, the length, width, and depth of the scar, aspect, and tree condition. Some trees also had test scars and cut marks that we also measured.

The other main project we have been working on is vegetation monitoring. This includes decommissioned roads that have been seeded as well as landings and burn piles from logging that have been turned into pollinator islands. We use line-point intercept monitoring to evaluate vegetation growth. This involves setting up measuring tapes between two set points marked with rebar, then at each foot, dropping a “pin” which is a long thin rod. We record the canopy above the pin, the vegetation that hits the pin, and the ground cover. This data is then used to determine the success of the seeding or planting, and to keep track of erosion.

Hannah (left) and Li (right) monitoring a pollinator island
Setting up the transects

One thing I find both difficult and enjoyable about monitoring is the challenge of determining different species from limited information. Because we started monitoring in August, some plants have started to senesce and shrivel, or they are still vegetative and have not yet produced any flowers, which makes them difficult to identify.

This makes monitoring kind of like a scavanger hunt. While monitoring a pollinator island, I came across this shriveled plant. As I investigated its dried form, with its creepy, curling petal-bits, nothing came to mind. I was stumped. I marked it as an unknown and continued monitoring. Later, I came across a harebell that solved the mystery. It had both shriveled and young flowers, confirming that the weird spikey flower had in fact been the soft and delicate harebell.

Many of these sites are also grazed, so we end up trying to sort through different clumps of stubby, dried grasses. My favorite monitoring-scavenger hunt example was a mysterious, soft grass. It had long, bright green leaves that were larger than other species nearby. When I bent down to investigate, I noticed its distinctly soft leaves. It wasn’t smooth like pinegrass or fuzzy like mullein is, but very tender. But, there were no seed heads to tell me who it was. I felt the blades of different grasses around me, and none were nearly as soft as this mystery grass. I checked the clump multiple times to see if I missed any seed heads. I investigated the ligule to see if it might tell me something. Nothing. I resigned myself to marking it as an unknown.

When we finished with each transect line for that plot, we coordinated our different unknowns. This time we walked around the whole plot, searching for other clumps of the soft-leaved mystery grass. Eventually we found it. My co-intern Eliza spotted a large and drooping bunch of green. I felt it and there it was, the soft leaves! This clump did have its seed heads and with it we knew immediately that it was Orchard Grass. I had previously liked Orchard Grass because its seed head is distinct enough that I could immediately tell what it was. But I had taken its distinctness for granted and never noticed anything else about the plant. Now, I have another characteristic in my Orchard grass tool belt.

Monitoring has taught me to use a combination of small cues to tell which grass is which. I now can recognize Psuedoroegneria spicata for the blue tinge and the sharp angle at which the leaves extend from the stem, rather than just the distinct bent awns of the seed head. I now can reconize Koeleria macrantha for the “racing stripes” on the leaves rather than for its pretty, narrow panicle. Many of these characteristics are not even things I can easily articulate, but after many repeated exposures to the plant, some part of my brain is able to sort different shapes and colors of grasses that at the beginning of the summer would have all looked the same to me. While it is true that I am learning, it is also true that we have a long list of unknown grasses on our data sheets.

Overall, it has been another good month, and the cool days have me looking forward to fall!

Smokey had a rough night
Osmorhiza berteroi or Mountain Sweet Cicely

– Cicely

Nodding Onion Firework and Other Bitterroot Happenings

These past few weeks, the nodding onions have exploded from their papery cocoon, dotting the understory with cute purple bundles. To me, these flowers seemed to come out of nowhere. During early surveys I glimpsed the little white bulb and marked down Allium cernuum in my survey form, barely sparing a thought for the plant. Then it seemed, all of a sudden, like beautiful fireworks were all around me.

I though for a moment that because they were so pretty, these plants might be the other rare onion in the Bitterroot Forest, Allium acuminatum. They were not. They were just regular old nodding onion.

As the fireworks of nodding onions began, the onion I overlooked became one of my favorite plants in the forest. I started to appreciate the bulb before the flower bloomed. When I looked closely I was able to see a neatly wrapped and protected umbel of flowers, reminding me of a caterpillar in a cocoon before it emerges in a display of beauty. I liked how the buds swelled and broke through the thin membrane surrounding them, how the buds hung in perfect little drops from the stem, how they then exploded into a ball, each bud stretching away from the others, how the petals slowly darkened from white to pink, and how green fruits swelled in the middle of each flower as the petals faded back to a wispy white. I loved that each plant seemed to go at its own speed, meaning every day I saw each step of the development in different parts of my survey, or even in a small clump of plants.


Besides admiring the nodding onion, we have done some bee surveys, seed collection, and more rare plant surveys.

The bee surveys are a part of Xerces’ Montana Bumble Bee Atlas project. The goal of this project is to track bumble bees across all of Montana. They do this by splitting the state into a grid and having trained volunteers adopt and conduct bee surveys in a grid-cell.

To conduct the survey, we find a spot to survey and time ourselves for 45 minutes. When we spot a bumble bee we catch it in the net, place it in a vial, and then put it in a cooler so it goes to sleep. Then we take pictures of the bee and record data about the flower the bee was on, the surrounding flora, and environmental conditions. When we are done taking pictures we let the bee fly away.

Our seed collection season has also begun. This means driving around the forest and looking for populations of target species that are big enough to collect, and also timing the collection when the seeds are developed but have not dispersed.

Seed collection bag for Penstemon albertinus and a meadow where we collected Camassia quamash

And, we have done a lot more rare plant surveys.

Here, Li and I are getting the aspect (cardinal direction) of the slope of a rare plant population.

And this is Li and me at the top of a very tall and steep hill.

This past month has been a lot of fun and I’m looking forward to our transition towards seed collection and vegetation monitoring.

A Tale of Sensitive Species

Deb day. Tuesday June 18th. Fourth day on the job.

I had been hearing about Deb, this mysterious woman who had decades of Botany experience in the Bitterroot National Forest. She was going to be taking us out into the field today and schooling us on the ways of the plants. Li, a Montana Conservation Corps fellow, had arrived in Montana a few weeks before and already had a “Deb Day.” She talked highly of Deb’s teachings, specifically her tips on how to scale the steep slopes.

We piled into the truck and rumbled along towards the forest. As we turned into the cover of the trees she began to point out various birds and plants, and talked about the geological history of the Bitterroots. Winding up the West Fork, we squeezed by branches and bumped over holes and rocks. Eventually, we came to an opening at the base of a steep hill where two sensitive species grow.

Deb had been a seasonal botany technician for 17 seasons, and when she talked about plants it was clear she had invaluable botanical wisdom. She pointed out plants as we went along, showing us how we could distinguish serviceberry from spirea by the curve of the leaf veins, but also elk sedge from pinegrass by running our fingers along the leaves. I ran my hand along the elk sedge and it felt wiry and stiff, and the pinegrass was fine and smooth. Once I did this, their similar looking leaves seemed less confusing.

As we made our way up the hill we spotted some brilliant red among the green. It was one of our rare plants: Castilleja covilliana, or Coville’s Indian Paintbrush. Deb showed us how C. covilliana’s leaves are spidery and thin, compared to the thicker leaves of its more common counterpart, C. hispida. There was one individual, the one in the picture below, that looked totally covilliana-y to my new Montana-botany eyes, but there were other individuals around that I would have thought were C. hispida. Deb talked about how these plants are very plastic, meaning their features can vary a lot depending on the environment they live in. Leaves in particular are plastic, which is unfortunate considering leaves are an important distinguisher between C. covilliana and C. hispida. This all made me feel very confused.

I also learned later that Castillejas can hybridize, meaning two individuals from different species can “break the rules” and mate, forming a plant that is neither C. covilliana nor C. hispida. So not only are the leaves plastic, they might also genuinely be a mix of the two species. So I imagine the entire season I will be asking myself “are these leaves spidery enough to be C. covilliana?”

Castilleja covilleana

Deb then announced that we were looking for Allium parvum, or small onion. We scoured the rocky ground for the onion. I would take a few steps, then scan, take a few steps, then scan. I saw nothing. After awhile, Deb announced that she found one. We scrambled over to her, and I looked around on the ground, and saw nothing. Then she pointed to a tiny, pale wisp on the tan gravel. It was nearly the same color as the rocks around it, was less than an inch wide, and had detached from any leaves. I thought to myself that there was no way I would be able to spot this by myself.

Hidden Alliums

As Li made her way over to us she spotted another onion. This one was slightly more conspicuous: still connected to the ground, connected to its leaves, and less dried out. It was a cute little thing, but still seemed hard to spot with its somewhat transparent petals and tiny stature.

Allium parvum

After the Allium, we made our way back down the hill, ate lunch in the bed of the truck, and then headed to a second site. Again, we wound up curvy gravel roads, with steep drop-offs that made me feel a little dizzy. The next site was a hill of coarse granite pebbles. But gorgeous blue and purple flowers poked from the gravel. This was Penstemon lemhiensis, the rare penstemon. It has bigger flowers than its lookalike Penstemon albertinus, and has a white mid-vein on its leaves. This one was my favorite of the day: easily spotted, no confusing leaf evaluations, and flowers that seemed to glow in the sunlight.

Penstemon lemhiensis

I was surprised to learn that these rare/sensitive species tend to be on seemingly inhospitable slopes. I imagined the all the sensitive species being in hidden oases with crystal-clear water, not on harsh, gravel slopes. But I’ve seen them and they are there!

As we ended the day with Deb, I remembered how good it feels to be able to know and recognize the plants around me. Coming to Montana was a bit of a botanical shock, in the sense that I went from knowing a good portion of the plants in St. Louis, to knowing almost none. While I still have a lot of learning to do, it has been rewarding to feel myself getting familiar with the Montana flora.

Until next time,

Cicely