Stan the Man

Forget-me-not (Myosotis sp.)

Oh, these? I brined those olives outside of Baur, take! Take more. More—

In all four years of my college experience, I had never met a man so eager to harvest the bitter little olives that grew, unnoticed, outside of the small Arts and Sciences building on west campus. Or now that I think about it, those small passion fruits too, which inhabited the butterfly garden through the late summer months, tasting like watery echoes of their relatives in the tropics. Or, even, the pea flowers that vined up the lamps besides one of our biology buildings (which ended up being toxic so we begged him to stop eating them). Or

—uh, okay. You probably get the point.

While scouting, I spotted some angel wings (Pleurocybella porrigens)! This was the first time I had seen this mushroom and I admit it does look quite ethereal.

I have a lot of memories of Stan. In the fall of my junior year, I heard Stan had tapped the maple trees on city sidewalks. Then, that he was making flour from acorns. Then, that he was going mushroom hunting in Forest Park and that all were welcome to come with. Or, most memorably in my sophomore spring, that he was making his yearly fishing trip up in Montauk State Park, and that I was invited. He was the coolest college advisor I could ask for.

Neither of us could’ve possibly known, but Stan laid the groundwork for life in Alaska.

Stan taught me how to fish. In Montauk, he showed me the way around a spinning reel on a camping lot, comparing the casting motion to throwing a frisbee. Memories of fishing puns and superstition, of the stink of bait, of camp jambalaya and marshmallows and of Stan’s fuzzy little trapper hat in the morning cold feed into my brain. His energy was contagious. When my friends and I reeled in several fish that night, he taught us how to clean them.

[Week 2, Karta Wilderness Area] After a day of filling our minds with the floral diversity of Southeast Alaska, it was time to even the playing field and fill our stomachs. Val was kind enough to lend me her fishing rod and, still not used to wearing Xtratufs, I stumbled over to the Karta river. Relying on muscle memory, I pieced the rod together and tacked on a spoon lure, taking in the rapids all around me. My friend in wildlife, Auggie, gives me a few pointers on the feeding behavior of trout and char. I listen to my line plop into the upstream, and watch it work its way down. The slack disappears, just a second, and Auggie yells at me to reel. I try to maintain my precarious balance on the rock as I do, tugging at the last second. My first Dolly Varden pops out of the water. Smaller than a rainbow trout, but tastier, I think. Stan would have loved to fish here. I wrap myself in my sleeping bag that night, feeling so lucky to have a mind swirling with Latin names and to be so utterly dwarfed by the temperate rainforest around me.

Stan taught me how to forage. I say this loosely, because the man also ate many things that he probably shouldn’t have. But what I really mean is that he imbued in me the spirit of foraging. Of being so curious and intimately aware of your surroundings that you become able to bring back some of its wonder to the dinner table. One of our mutual favorites was the Pawpaw tree. I am of the opinion that the Pawpaw is a midwestern treasure. The fruit, although short-lived, tastes as if someone had told a mango seed that it was actually a banana. C’mon now.

[Week 10, Gravelly Creek] We are collecting a target species today, Ribes bracteosum. The shrub is also known as stink currant. Levi and I bicker over whether the stink is the good kind or not. I contend that it is. Levi wrinkles his nose. We open up the Wildflowers of Alaska app to see if an official flora will prove one of our nasal preferences superior. As we read the annoyingly unbiased descriptions, my eye catches on a fun-fact: the frosty-blue, (pleasantly!) herbal fruits are edible (with notes describing the flavor ranging from unpleasant to mild, but I digress). I prepare everything I’ll need to start the collection, cutting a few of the berries open to get my calculations started. A vomit-green jelly, alongside some dark, angular seeds spill out. It had always made me laugh how Stan so readily popped questionable things into his mouth, giving even the least-of-choice edibles a chance. The morbid curiosity itches my brain. Anytime we’ve collected from an edible plant, I’ve had a taste. Admittedly they were mostly blueberries and salmonberries up until this point. But you learn by doing, right?

But maybe most importantly, Stan was a consistent reminder of just how fascinating the world is. I admire the way he was, always so curious about the most random of things, always encouraging his students to seek out what kept them up at night. He didn’t care about what you were already good at. What kind of work energizes you, Em? Become good at that. That was his advice. When Stan met me, I was a political science major. The very first time I went tromping in the woods was in his class, in fact. Freshman year. A city girl who needed hiking boots. I imagine that somewhere along the way, I took a turn down the right rabbit hole because here I am, still tromping around in the great outdoors—asking questions, taking notes, and eating questionable things—and I get that same childlike wonder from it each time.

[Week 12, Gravelly Creek] We map populations to gain a general sense of their density and spread. And mapping was exactly what I was doing on a warm afternoon, eyes flicking between the GPS on my iPad and the trail ahead of me. A habit ingrained into me throughout this internship has been to always be aware of your surroundings. This was usually so you could find good populations of your target species, but of course, being alert helps with spotting wildlife, weather, or dead trees, as well. So, trusting the GPS to follow my path, I let my gaze wander over the tops of the midstory, noting the abundance of Devil’s club (Oplopanax horridus) in my vicinity. O. horridus is a sprawling shrub adorned in prickles, with broad (but also prickly) leaves, and terminal clusters of red berries. It also happens to be a target species. I’ve always found it to be an interesting plant—there aren’t many others in the area that are quite as painful to touch. So I asked it a question that I ask a lot of plants these days: why are you the way that you are? Or in the case of O. horridus: who hurt you?! I didn’t expect to have an answer so soon. The sound of splintering wood had me whirling to my left. And there it was. A black bear, standing on its hind legs, pushing down on O. horridus like an uncompliant vending machine. The red berries flitted through the bear’s mouth, the animal’s thick coat fighting off thousands of years of evolution in just a couple of minutes. Were the prickles a way to ensure that only bears could propogate O. horridus’s seeds, perhaps? I pulled my jaw closed and pocketed that thought—and this potential seed collection—for later.

When you miss something or someone, you see them in everything.

In many ways, that is how I have felt about Stan throughout this internship. I’d always envisioned that I would be able to swing by campus and catch up with him. That we’d sit down, I’d pet his dog, and we’d talk about the university arboretum, weird-looking seeds, and his latest find at the thrift store. That I’d get to thank him more formally, for everything he has done to encourage my pursuance of all the wonky environmental phenomena I love.

All this to say that meandering through airport security, on the precipice of leaving home to start this internship, was the last place I expected to find out about his passing.

I think grief is an emotion that most environmentalists contend with on a regular basis. At this stage in the game of climate-change and politics, we are in a never-ending battle of loving things that we would either regret to lose, are losing, or have already lost. Here on Prince of Wales, where the vast majority of the island has already been cut down at least once, I can only look at the forest around me and wonder at what once was. At what large stands of old-growth may have looked like, at which native plants used to thrive in the places now dominated by reed-canary grass (Phalaris arundinacea), and at how differently indigenous groups may have managed the land before us. Don’t get me wrong; I deeply admire the work that the Forest Service here has doneand continues to doto repair and prevent the errors of the past. There are so many amazing people working here, and around the world, simply because they care about that mission. But we are all working on a puzzle that was handed down to us missing a few, if not many, pieces.

There is a natural and undoubted sadness there, in that sense. We may want so badly to connect with the past, if only to appreciate and learn from it just a little longer. Loss often leaves us with an overwhelming amount of love and this bitter desire to please just put it somewhere, even if that somewhere seemingly no longer exists. But what we do have is right now.

This internship has taught me many practical things about the kind of conservation work I want to embody moving forward, but on a more personal level, I’ve learned to see the work I’ve done here as a way to honor Stan’s legacy. I hope that through all my rambling, it’s become clear that Stan is a crucial part of why I am here, now.

So, to my college advisor, my professor, and always my friend: Stan, you’re the man. I see you in the trees (and wow are there a lot of them in the forest, who knew) and in every funky-flavored fruit I put in my mouth. I see your influence in every person who was lucky enough to witness your love for nature in action. I find your spirit in all the people who share echoes of your gentle wit and wonder. And, when I’m outside, I try to experience all these beautiful places through your eyes, even if it’s for just a moment. Let me share something with you, this time.

I miss you, Stan. Thank you for everything.

And thank you, Alaska. You have been brilliant.

I’m gonna let you go, now.

-Emma

Goodbye Alaska!

My final month in the Tongass went by as quickly as the previous three. It was a summer full of adventures, seed collecting, hiking, camping, swimming, and wildlife viewing. The Tongass is truly a magical place. The coastal temperate rainforest is such a unique ecosystem. It is so productive and filled with megafauna and old-growth stands, that make you feel like you were transported into Jurassic Park. Ketchikan seems to always be entrapped by thick clouds and a mist that makes the mountain’s features more mysterious. However, despite its reputation as one of the rainiest US towns, we had a beautiful summer filled with many consecutive sunny days. I began to long for the clouds and rain as plants and creeks started to dry up. After a few weeks in August, Ketchikan returned to its normal cloud coverage that I’ve grown to love.

We finished the season with collections from 20 different species. Aquilegia formosa (wild columbine), Aruncus dioicus (goatsbeard), Carex aquatilis (water sedge), Carex echinata (star sedge), Coptis aspleniifolia (fern-leaf goldthread), Chamerion angustifolium (fireweed), Gualtheria shallon (salal), Heracleum maximum (cow parsnip), Oplopanax horridus (devil’s club), Ribes bracteosum (stink currant), Rubus spectabilis (salmonberry), Sanguisorba officinalis (great burnet), Scirpus microcarpus (panicled bulrush), Spiraea splendens (rose meadowsweet), Tiarella trifoliata (three-leaf foamflower), Vaccinium ovalifolium (blueberry), and Vaccinium parviflorum (red huckleberry). In total we collected 1,577,772 seeds, weighing 17 lbs.

It was a very diverse group of species, that all have high value for restoration projects. For example, Cow Parsnip & Fireweed provide food and shelter to animals and pollinators. Plus, they are great for roadside disturbed areas and shade out the biggest nuisance in the Tongass: reed canary grass. We collected lots of fruit bearing shrubs that are great for wildlife and help stabilize the soil. The rest of the species were collected to help revive the stream banks after stream restorations.

Apart from all the seed collecting, we collaborated with other resource specialists on timber, watershed restoration, archeology, and recreation projects. I got to dip my toe into the other disciplines and expand my general knowledge. This experience I had out here was everything I wanted and more. I learned a ton about botany, coastal rainforests, restoration, and working for a government agency. This internship is definitely going to be instrumental in continuing a career stewarding our natural world.

I leave Alaska with a bittersweet kind of feeling. I am very grateful for this opportunity and so glad I accepted the offer to come almost 3,500+ miles from home to an area that I had no prior experience with. The Tongass National Forest holds a special place in my heart, and I look forward to making my way back here one of these days.

Making Headlines in August

A highlight of this month was working with the Fish & Wildlife and KIC (Ketchikan Indian Community) crews on restoring salmon habitat to streams at Last Chance campsite. Before we started this project the stream looked like a bowling alley, the water was flowing straight down and starting to erode the bank into the nearby campground. When a stream is flowing like this, there’s no pools or pockets for fish habitat or breeding grounds. We spent the week digging trenches along the creek, then pulled downed trees into the trenches, and covered them with rocks. After a week of manual labor, the stream ended up with more S curves, waterfall features, and pools. We even made the front page of Ketchikan Times! The seeds we are collecting this season will be used on projects like this in the future to restore vegetation to the stream banks.

The rest of the workdays of August were dedicated to collecting and cleaning seeds. On August 28th we were able to send off 7 out of our 8 completed seed collections. The 7 collections that were shipped on August 28 were Vaccinium ovalifolium (Blueberry), Chamerion angustifolium (Fireweed), Ribes bracteosum (Stink Currant), Oplopanax horridus (Devil’s Club), Aruncus dioicus (Goatsbeard), Hercaleum maximum (Cow Parsnip), Gualtheria shallon (Salal). Our 8th collection will be Spirea splendens (Rosie spirea), which we aim to ship out in the next two weeks, hopefully along with Scirpus microcarpus (Panicled Bulrush), and Carex aquatilis (Water Sedge).

Some other noteworthy things happened this month. I stumbled upon a tree covered in “Chicken of the Woods.” Sautéed with salt, pepper, and butter they truly taste just like chicken! The less appetizing photo on the right features some dead salmon. Several species of salmon have almost concluded their runs back to the lakes and streams they were born in. Once they make it back to the lake they lay their eggs or spread their sperm. After such a dangerous and exhausting journey they can rest easy and rot away in bliss knowing they’ve completed their life cycle. Ward Lake in Ketchikan is very pungent and getting harder to visit, but seeing the lake fill up with salmon is a reminder on just how extraordinary nature’s processes can be!

Finally, the top highlight of the month was hiking the Deer Mountain Traverse. Last Saturday afternoon Neave and I sent it up the Deer Mountain trail head right in the center of town and at 4pm on Sunday we reached the parking lot at the base of Mahoney Mountain on the far south side of Revilla Island. The ~18~ mile hike through the alpine, past many lakes, and over several peaks was a once in a lifetime hike. Absolutely beautiful landscapes and perfect weather. It was a great way to cap off an awesome month!

Wild Life and Wilderness

The first month of this journey has been everything I was hoping for and more! The Tongass NF is so vast and filled with dense wilderness, it’s much more accessible by float plane or boat than by car. So we’ve been traveling mostly by boat, which can present challenges with rough seas or stormy days. However, the weather has been surprisingly incredibly nice. The tales of torrential rain 7 days a week were greatly over exaggerated (please don’t let this jinx me).

As we wait for our targeted species to flower, develop fruits, and then go to seed, we have filled our time with trainings, scouting, rare species surveys, and micro timber sale surveys. We’ve also done a few personal use timber surveys, a program that I believe is unique to Alaska. Each Alaskan resident is given the opportunity to take 10,000 board feet of timber for their personal use (usually to build a house or stock up on firewood). So i’ve gone out to a few different islands with the timber crew to survey the trees they’ve chosen to make sure it’s 150 ft away from any streams or eagles nest, the forest floor is clear of any rare species, and outside of any cultural resource sites. It’s been an interesting experience, my preconceived bias was that these individuals would want the biggest and easiest trees to extract. However, the individuals were very environmentally conscious, and turned down trees that they felt would disturb the ecology of the forest. Its refreshing to see how connected the residents here are with the forest, something that is not as common in other parts of America.

Anyways, I’m super excited for the rest of this adventure. I’ve learned a ton and can’t wait to absorb even more!