Becuase of the fire

As a lifetime east-coaster, moving across the country to Detroit, Oregon was exciting yet daunting. The Pacific Northwest was only known to me through movies (Twilight) and TV shows (Gravity Falls) – each strange in their own right. Basically to say, my expectations for Oregon were big trees, lots of moss, and maybe a vampire or two. The first two criteria were met quickly upon my arrival. As we entered the forest, I squished my nose against the passenger window trying to see the tops of the reigning conifers that lined the highways. The trees became cities with moss skyscrapers dangling from the branches and sprawling lichen suburbia along the bark. As we took the next turn, I turned to look out the front, only to be met with a landscape of devastation. The lush forest turned into a sea of scorched trees. The tree cities became post-apopalyptic, and only the skeletons of the infrastructure remained.

How long would it take to eat this tree?

I knew that the forest I would be working in had experienced huge fires in 2020, but it was difficult to imagine the extent without seeing it. The next couple of weeks working in the Willamette National Forest would be drenched in fire talk. Every explanation and description seemed to be sandwiched in between some version of “before the fire” and “because of the fire.” The district I work in had 46% of its forest burned in 2020. One of the major fires of 2020 happened overnight. The fire started miles away and hit a gust of wind that blew it across the hills in a matter of hours. My coworker told me that no one could have predicted it because the area where it happened had high precipitation and moisture year round. Every model and expert denied a fire of this extent would hit the forest.

I was lucky enough to tag along with the wildlife crew to do spotted owl surveys! No spotted owls were heard, but I did get properly creeped out by the burned areas at night.

I’m usually someone who tries to see the beauty in everything, especially when it comes to nature. However, I’m beginning to question if this philosophy can apply here. Should I be trying to find a silver lining in devastation, or should I take the lack of one as a cautionary tale? During my first week here, I was able to get out into some of the burned areas, or “the black” in technical talk. It’s eerie. For miles all you see is blackened trees and mountains covered in gray sticks. Giant trees lay across the ground, charred on the outside, but the wood inside is still tan (to me they looked like big ol’ hot dogs (vegan friendly!) left over the fire too long… my coworkers did not agree). To an unassuming eye it might just look like a dreary winter landscape, but the pockets of green, lush rainforest are a constant reminder of what this landscape fostered only years ago.

Whitewater Trail – A devistating area that was burned twice (once in 2017 and again in 2020)
Downing Falls – A beautiful example of what the unburned forest can look like, and the photo cannot encapsulate how bright of a green the moss is.

There are only a handful of natives here that thrive in disturbed areas, but many invasives have been quick to take advantage of the disaster. Since we (myself and my two other coworkers, Ella and Katie) are here to collect native seeds, the number of invasives can be a bit disheartening, especially when you see how much effort goes into eradicating them. Some of them, like scotch broom, Cytisus scoparius, grow like a hydra – you kill a hundred and the next season they seem to only double. A cross section of the soil underneath would reveal the secret of their doubling act – a seed bank. Beneath the surface are horizons of seeds only waiting for their time to grow, and in doing so, they keep us on the defensive. Once the seed bank is established its pretty much impossible to eradicate the species, and it makes it even harder for native plants to become established.

My coworker, Ella, and I in the parking lot of the Whitewater Trailhead with a view of Mt. Jefferson.

The invasive species and general fire damage provide a constant reminder of why our work is important. The fires and disasters aren’t going to stop, so the more we can prepare, the better we can restore these ecosystems. I look forward to getting to know the forest as we scout and collect native seeds, and, on sunny days, I’m still keeping my eyes peeled for any glittering vampires, hoping (fearing?) they didn’t all burn up in the fire. 

Sunset over Detroit Lake

Not in Kansas Anymore

The journey started when I left my sweet college town of Manhattan, Kansas. I packed up my Ford Fusion, filled a bucket of ice to supplement my broken AC, and set off west to Willamette National Forest. As I looked through my rearview mirror, the cornfields faded away behind me, and the forest area that I would call home for the next six months appeared through my window.

The Man The Myth The Legend: My car Steven

Once I got to the town of Detroit, Oregon, I was amazed by how beautiful the forest looked. Driving through the valley, I had an amazing view of Mount Jefferson and the neighboring mountains. When I arrived at the Bunkhouse, I arranged my things, said hi to my roommate Ash, and made a list of things to get from the store the next day with my other roommate, Katie. I realized things were about to be a lot different. The town was an hour away, which required planning for meals and other necessities, something I was not used to. On the way into town, we stopped at the gas station, where we were approached by a man who came up to the car. Katie screamed in fright, as one does, at the man, and that’s how we found out you don’t pump your own gas in Oregon—another thing we both were not familiar with.

View from Bunkhouse Window

Our mentor Heidi took us to the area they call “the black,” where the forest was burnt down. This was an intense sight to see because so much of the forest burned down in 2020. Heidi showed us all the things the fire impacted, such as invasive species that started to grow in the burned areas and take over the once diverse forest landscape. Throughout the week, we did more training and hiking through the forest. We saw many cool sights, including waterfalls, snow on the mountains, and even a bear. Since starting work, we have done lots of reading and learning about the native species in the area so we can be prepared for when we go out and start collecting seed. Oregon has many more different plants and insects than I am familiar with, but it has been fun to learn about all the new species out here!

Katie and Ash make a snowfriend
Two Doggies In the Back Nothing In my Burlap Sack ( Our Album in the making)

On our off time Katie, Ash, and I have visited Portland, hiked more around the Willamette, went to Silver Falls, played board games, visited some lakes, and went to the Oregon coast. It’s been an awesome first month getting to travel around with Ash, and Katie and can’t wait for our next adventures!

Silly Lil’ Geese

MN to NM

I am currently 1400 miles away from the place I spent roughly 80% of my life. From northern Minnesota where I was a 3 hour drive to the Canada border to Ruidoso New Mexico, where I’m the same distance to the border of Mexico. It’s been a life changing voyage all packed into such a short time, and one that doesn’t seem to have a specific destination in mind. I’ve stopped for periods of time to work, mostly to gain some skills and knowledge, some to survive, and best of all, for fun. Ultimately I’ve landed on a profession in the great outdoors where the only thing that beats the amazing individuals you’ll meet are the lunch break views.

Sitting Bull Falls, Queen NM

In my mind, I got lucky. I was just following seasonal jobs that seemed like a fun way to be outdoors and learn a few skills. Up till now I’ve spent the last 2 seasons removing invasive plant species with herbicide and chainsaws. It’s been good hard work but I’ve always thought about what happens after? Are the organizations I’m working for come back and do anything with these areas we’ve impacted? Or are they just left for the next crew the next season to come back and repeat the process. That curiosity lead me to apply for a job as a native seed collector, and I could not be more excited to learn everything related to botany and this new landscape I’m in the middle of. With hundreds of random pictures of unidentified plants, insects and birds maybe I can finally start making a dent on figuring out what’s behind the mysteries in my camera roll. It has already been a very unique experience for me! With flying to Chicago to meet all my fellow interns and see the amazing botanic garden and returning home just to immediately retreat due to wildfire, I think this season will be quite exciting. Although, I think I might have had enough excitement for the season and am very much looking forward to being able to return and keep my head down looking for plant species to collect from.

Evacuation due to a wildfire reaching Ruidoso NM city limits.

Sprouting Elsewhere

A ring of mushrooms found in the Karta Wilderness Area.

There’s little in Alaska that feels familiar to a city girl.

Sometime within the whirlwind of this past month, I found myself at the edge of a community bonfire in one of Prince of Wales’ numerous coastal towns, striking up conversation with a local resident, Frank. As we exchanged pleasantries, I disclosed to him that I was from New York, to which a most startled Frank asked frankly:

“—are you lost?”

I can see how that might be the case. The Tongass National Forest, I’m finding, is a place of extremes. In this temperate rainforest, there are trees that tower over you with an ease that demands respect, bracken ferns (Pteridium aquilinum) alongside skunk cabbage (Lysichiton americanum) that inch past your eye-level everywhere you turn, and devil’s club (Oplopanax horridus) with leaves the size of your face—alongside thorns in charitable quantities—undoubtedly ready to catch the next unlucky hiker who uses their sturdy branches to cushion a fall.

For the plants with limited access to resources, they tend to lead smaller lives. Not in the sense that their existence is less rich or impressive, but because typically, they are best appreciated from on your knees, and sometimes with a hand lens. Beds of moss define the spongey floors of muskegs, and are often found side-by-side with lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idea), bog cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos) and the inconspicuous—yet carnivorous—round-leaved sundew (Drosera rotundifolia).

Bog cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccos), now in bloom.

All of this to say that the Tongass is nothing like the skyscrapers and subway rats of home, even if both of those things are undeniably extreme in their own respects.

In Alaska, I am constantly asking questions. Simple ones, theoretical ones, stupid ones, and many, many icebreakers. There is no benefit to faking what you don’t know (it really could just kill you out here), especially when you have everything to gain by accepting that you might know nothing at all.

Without a doubt, I am grateful that college academia introduced conservation to me through a variety of principles, models, and research. I used those teachings to build myself a foundation. But now I get to revise it, and that’s worth appreciating as well. Because as a favorite professor of mine would often remind me: things will always be different in the field.

A meadowy stream. The rusty color is characteristic of water filled with tannins.

As efforts into scouting and collecting native seed begin, I have no doubt that my professor will prove right and that I will be challenged by all that I don’t know. I may find myself lost in the most literal sense…once or twice or three times. Ultimately though, what matters is that I focus on emulating the very same qualities pursued after in all conservation and restoration work—adaptability and resilience. I want to grow. So it’s hard to feel lost, because I believe Alaska is exactly the place I need to be to do that.

Yellow pond lily (Nuphar polysepala), creeping out of the moss.

See you on the flip side!

Setting New Roots

Travelling and moving to a new place can always be daunting, but Pollock Pines has quickly become home. June started off with the CLM training in Chicago, where I got to meet Dean (co-intern) for the first time! We were able to explore the campus of the Chicago Botanic Garden, learn more about the Garden’s goals and how to be a botanist, and meet other interns from across the country! We explored while listening to the cicada’s roar in the forests, during an amazing hatch of the 17-year, 13-year, and brood XIX and XIII co-emerged. It was absolutely fantastic seeing the so many cicadas! Then, some of the interns went to Chicago for our celebratory night after the training! Great food, exploring a new city and amazing new friends made along the way!

Then I had a quick turnaround to move to Pollock Pines for the season! I packed up from Boise, Idaho and drove the quick 9 hours to Pollock Pines! I got to see Lake Tahoe for the first time in the daylight, and I was greeted at home with a gorgeous sunset. Now comes the challenging part, learning a completely new flora! Dean is from the area and is very knowledgeable, which is much appreciated! The Sierras are absolutely breathtaking, the exposed granite and some serious topography. Dean and I did a lot of onboarding while also trying to get into the field when we could!

Then, my friend Iris invited me on a camping trip to Loon Lake! She’s the crew lead for the North Zone botany team of the El Dorado. It was such a fun weekend meeting her crew as well as the wildlife crew! We went on a beautiful hike to Bassi Falls and spend a lot of time swimming. Such a great weekend!

Dean and I got to assist the pollinator team with rare plant pollinator networks. We went out with the Cal State East Bay pollinator team and learned how to do pollinator networks for Lewisia kellogii. I really enjoyed learning about pollinator networks and how plant conservation benefits by supporting pollinator communities.

Dean and I went out the next day and assisted the California Native Plant Society on mapping Lewisia kellogii hutchisonii (one of the rare plants on the El Dorado). We looked for flowering Lewisia, and then marked them. The Lewisia retracts back into the ground once pollinated to develop the seeds, which is why we needed to mark them for some seed collection! Working with the CNPS team was wonderful to see how professional careers develop in botanical sciences.

I’m looking forward to what comes next! The El Dorado is absolutely amazing!

Great start to the summer!

Greetings from Willamette National Forest

Howdy!

My name is Kaitlyn Skelton, a recent graduate from Stephen F. Austin State University in Texas, where I earned my degree in Agriculture with a concentration in Horticulture.

Recent Agriculture graduate Kaitlyn Skelton from Stephen F. Austin State University’s Arthur Temple College of Forestry & Agriculture, with experience in gardening and small-scale farming and a focus on regenerative practices.

This summer, I am working as a seasonal botany intern here in the beautiful and resilient landscapes of Oregon. Moving from the warm plains and rolling hills of Texas to the lush, albeit fire-scarred, expanses of the Willamette National Forest has been eye-opening. With a background in agriculture rather than forestry or environmental sciences, there is a definite learning curve. However, I believe that this background allows me to bring a fresh perspective to the field.

The cross-country drive to Oregon was spectacular, showcasing the incredible variety of the American landscape. However, the specific climate of the Pacific Northwest is distinct and strikingly different from any other region I have visited. The shift while driving into this area is burned into my memory. Towering trees envelop the highways and Detroit Lake, with its stunning vistas, is a sight to behold.

Mount Jefferson, the second highest peak in Oregon, standing at 10,495 feet

My new home is on a compound, allowing me to fulfill a long-held dream of walking to work. The view outside my apartment is stunning, making it hard to stay indoors for long. With no air conditioning, lounging outside in a hammock or lawn chair becomes not just a preference but an occasional necessity, anyway. The Detroit Ranger Station, where my office is, is only a short walk from Detroit Lake, and offers impressive views of the forest. From the lake, the impact of the 2020 wildfires is obvious, reminding us of the forest’s vulnerability and the importance of conservation efforts.

Double-decker hammocks that my co-intern and I set up behind our apartment

That’s great, but what are you actually working on out there?

As an intern with the Chicago Botanic Garden’s Conservation and Land Management (CLM) Program and the Seeds of Success program, I am focused on native seed collection. Collecting native seeds supports biodiversity and habitat restoration, crucial in combating climate change. By gathering wildland native seeds for research, driving developmental projects, conserving genetic germplasm, and supporting restoration initiatives, we preserve diverse plant communities. This enhances the resilience of ecosystems to environmental stresses, contributing to a healthier and more sustainable future. The hands-on experience and mentorship I receive make this work deeply rewarding and impactful.

Aquilegia formosa seeds, collected for restoration efforts, are essential for revitalizing native plant communities in the Willamette National Forest

The other half of my work involves collaborating with the US Forest Service to maintain and restore the Willamette National Forest. Spanning over a million acres, this forest is a treasure trove of old-growth trees, pristine lakes, and rugged mountains. However, the wildfires of 2020, including the devastating Lionshead and Beachie Creek Fires, scorched over 400,000 acres, leaving behind charred landscapes and disrupted ecosystems. Many days are spent clearing invasive species that threaten the delicate balance of the ecosystem and scouting native plant populations to ensure their survival and regrowth. With the seeds we are collecting, we can even reseed damaged areas, helping restore these vital habitats.

View of fire damage in the Willamette National Forest from Whitewater Trailhead, which is closed to the public due to unsafe conditions from the Lionshead Fire

Ongoing recovery efforts focus on restoration, habitat rebuilding, and fire prevention. While the scars of the wildfires are still visible, the forest’s resilience is evident as new growth emerges from the ashes.

Although I am only beginning this journey, I find it incredibly rewarding. The opportunity to work with a dedicated team and contribute to the restoration of Willamette National Forest fills me with gratitude and excitement. I look forward to deepening my connection with this remarkable ecosystem and community and playing a part in its recovery and preservation.

Kaitlyn Skelton

June in Tonto

I grew up in the Phoenix valley, west side, and never really knew much else until after high school. It was almost overwhelming walking through the Tonto National Forest. I had never seen so much of an area so free of concrete. Not completely, there were still power lines and fencing, but it was there to keep the wildlife wild and away from the tame world of society. Still, is in an incredible experience to be able to walk through the Tonto and its abundant resources. Seeing the parts of a system work together as insects pollinate the plants that feed the larger animals. When nothing happens in the forest, the most magical song plays by an orchestra of songbirds accompanied by the breeze playing through the trees. As a child, playing outside was riding my bike through the cul-de-sac until the asphalt was too hot to ride over. To be able to just walk through tree-shaded trails is such an indescribable feeling. To think the wilderness has always been just out there. To think there used to be so much more. I cannot understand why humans replaced the forest with concrete jungles. I have only grown more passionate about environmental protection, conservation, and education. Being out with nature makes one connect with their environment and understand themselves. It is so fun to think this as I scout for plants.

The image above is of my first time in a meadow. There was so much tall grass to wade through and stomp over, even though this image may not show it. Yes it was incredibly hot and humid and filled with so many fascinating insects, but it was all so new to me and just wonderful. This blog post was more about how this opportunity has strengthened my decision in continuing field biology. Less about the work itself but the environment it brought me to. Outside work is not for everyone. Honestly, my first field assignment was to pull out weeds, and I had so much fun digging into soft dirt. Anytime my family had to do yardwork we needed pickaxes. These were available at that first assignment but were not necessary with how soft the soil was. Working outside in the Arizona Summer is definitely scary and not for everyone. It is intense and the heat risks are very high. Luckily growing up here I am confident in my capabilities to handle it and take action as I recognize signs of heat stress. The summer has started off strong this season and I look forward to continuing exploring the Tonto National Forest.

Air

A thick, heavy layer of clouds hugs the rocky shores and shoals of southeast Alaska, fluttering its thousand whispering notes through the Sitka spruces, soon to be carved into guitar necks and drum frames. Its mistral arms wrap round the eaglets in their nests and embrace the porcupines; it swaddles fjords in fog, entombs ships’ lights in a steely gray and swirls over the icy spires of the Klawock Range. Funneled into the steep sides of the Inside Passage, ocean winds mix and churn into a roiling silver wind of salt spray.

Many days, after gorging itself on the warm Pacific current, this layer of clouds droops with a leaden cargo of water until coalescing into the famous Alaska rain. This rain (of which southeast Alaska receives more than any other place in the country) is the chilling, soaking variety that drives bees to cower under flowers and grizzled old fishermen to sing sea shanties on the docks. It percolates through the sparse, rocky soil to bind together some particles and wedge apart others that finally collapse into enormous landslides. One curious thing I have noticed is that rain here seldom is packaged into hammering thunderstorms – the cumulonimbus clouds that electrify the Midwest require hotter summer air than Alaska receives. It arrives as a lighter, more persistent tap-tap-tap that seems always ready to drop out of the precariously perched clouds at the slightest disturbance. It is a rain that makes excellent weather for sitting on the Thorne Bay Library porch, writing blog posts like this one and drinking convenience store coffee (brewed for sailors, so strong that it has to be beaten back into the cup with a spoon).

Setting sail from Ketchikan Harbor to Prince of Wales Island

On other, less frequent days, the dome of clouds is whisked away to reveal the warm sun that encourages the treetops and teases the mosses and ferns below – even on the brightest days, the dense tangle of conifer needles that roofs the Tongass keep the forest floor cool and shaded. We spent five days in the Karta River Wilderness with this rare Alaska sunshine, where it shimmers off mirror-still lakes and the bald heads of seals in the bay. After long days of backpacking, pulling foxgloves and hacking through heavy brush, returning to our camp in the ever-shady understory felt a sweet relief. There the sun hovers long over the horizon, scattering its fiery rays over the rippling trout streams until ten at night and returning by four o’clock the next morning.

The Klawock Range that spans the middle of our island

I am always fascinated by the sublime beauty that weather can display. Alaska is a land of extremes – to borrow from folk singer Hobo Jim, “this is the country where legends are born.” The Pacific Northwest Coast is the largest temperate rainforest in the world, and I can think of no better place to see weather’s creative forces at work than a land where it raises up colossal trees like mossy pillars from six-inch-deep soil. Where fourteen-foot tides are normal and krummholz pines cling tenuously to life on the windswept mountains. And where cloudberries – of which I am trying my best to find just one good patch ­– really do grow within clouds in the cold, foggy muskegs. I am greatly looking forward to the rest of our season here in the Great Land – whatever way the wind blows.

Overlooking Karta Lake

The last few weeks recap

The past few weeks have flown by! Since training, Iran and I have been to the Leo Grove, and the Little Green Meadow sites on the Tonto Forest. Both were very different sites- Leo Grove is a covered pine-forest dry woodlands area, whereas the Little Green Meadow was pretty self-explanatory, a wetland full of rushes with winding small streams through the center. My favorite plant right now is the plant Phleum pretense, mostly because I think it’s a dumb name for a plant, it reminded me of the nonsense words in the Rick and Morty Plumbus commercial and the florets look like little Batman helmets. (See the image below for my super detailed and informative drawing of a Phleum floret.) Also at the Little Green Meadow site, we saw little ant mounds everywhere, and I thought wow! Ants! I hope they won’t bite me. I was more worried about stepping on a hornet nest, but after seeing several large cow bones, a coyote skeleton, and bear droppings, I was more concerned about the larger things. There is a point to this I swear! The moral of the story is that no matter where we are, whether it’s in a pine forest or a meadow by a cow pasture or even in an apartment binge-watching Bridgerton season 3 until 2 am, (I highly recommend by the way) you can’t really worry about the large stuff sometimes, and I think that coming to peace with that is a good way to live in the moment and get more out of your present experience. In the wise words of Grand Master Oogway, “Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift- that is why it is called the present.” In other words, I’m looking forward to future adventures on the Tonto and seeing many a green meadow later on, and maybe an eldritch terror or two that reside within them. But today, I’m happy about learning the little things and looking at plants, while enjoying a coffee and working in a city I love. Happy trails! 

-Zane

Grasses and Goshawks!

This first month in Montana has been eventful since the moment I arrived. On my way into the ranger station I ran into a dog that was walking around in the middle of the highway near Monarch and my co-worker Ana and I brought it back so we could call the number on his collar and get him out of harms way. His name was Homie and he was such a lovely dog! He was nothing but sweet the entire time, and even hopped into the truck without any problems! Some other people at the ranger station were heading towards the address on Homie’s collar, so they took him back to his owners.

My first few weeks here was spent doing restoration work in several different locations. It was my first time in Montana so I wasn’t fully prepared for how beautiful the landscape was! Every site had a great view of the mountains, which just seemed to go on and on and it was nice to be able to relax during our lunch breaks and enjoy the view.

Morning in the Castle Mountains

On the third week Sky and I spent a lot of time going over the plant list that we were given and finding the flowering times so we could build a rough plan for how we will be collecting the seeds. We also spent a lot of time going through training, which was a bit of a drag, but meant that we were able to go out on or own and practice our keying to see if there were any target species some areas suggested by our boss Victor.

Penstemon albertinus

Finally, we were able to meet with the Forest Botanist Nate and he helped us with keying out grasses and learning all of the specific terminology that comes with it. We made sure to go out to different sites to gain more experience and I feel much more confident now in my plant id skills than I did before. We were also able to join him and another botany tech searching for some rare orchids in the Rocky Mountain Front!

Amerorchis rotundifolia

So far this season has been filled with many different experiences that I didn’t expect going into it, and I only hope that this season continues to surpass my expectations.