Backpacking in Jefferson Park

Let me start by apologizing for my previous blog post. It was lackluster and I know I can do better. As I’m writing this, it hasn’t been posted yet, and I’m not sure if it ever will as that decision isn’t mine to make (shoutout Monica, you’re the best). I, regardless though, felt saddened by the lack of detail. This post will be different. You, dear reader, deserve more.

Here’s my account of my backpacking trip from September 9th to 11th—3 days and 2 nights—in the Jefferson Park area within the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness.

Ash and Heidi preparing to map Calamagrostis breweri populations

A Definition

Type 2 Fun is an experience that isn’t fun at the moment but is fun in hindsight. It’s often associated with difficult and scary situations, where the stories later are good and you leave with a better understanding of yourself and your boundaries. I hadn’t heard this term before, but as soon as the trip was being planned, Michael, our coworker, kept calling it that. I would hear this phrase repeatedly—before, during, and after the trip.

The Weeks Before

When backpacking was first suggested, I was excited. I’d never done anything like it and was curious about spending a night in the wilderness with no service, vehicle, or my usual luxuries.  

As the trip approached, Heidi, our mentor, gave us a long list of things to buy (food, supplies, etc.). I bought nothing. It worked out fine because many necessities were covered by USFS botany supplies, Heidi herself, our boss Darrin, and my general willingness to endure discomfort rather than purchase extra stuff.  

Then we learned it was a three-night trip. I panicked, realized I wasn’t up for that, and bailed. Ella bailed with me. Heidi compromised and said we could stay for just one night to get a feel for the experience, and just like that, we were back in. 

A few days before, Ella got sick but, y’know, she’ll be better by the trip…

The Day Before

Ella was not better by the trip.

I decided to cancel my plans because I couldn’t just go for one night without a partner to hike back with. I also didn’t want to make Ash leave early with me because they were more excited about the trip. I felt perfectly fine about skipping. Ella told Heidi she couldn’t make it, and Heidi called, asking me to stay two nights and have Ash and me hike back together. I reluctantly agreed. I packed my bag, attaching an old work photo of Ella for company on the journey.1

Day One

After finishing packing, I drank my last Dr. Pepper for a few days and ate a tofu scramble and a bean burrito. We loaded the truck and weighed our backpacks—both came out to about 31.5 lbs. Not due to careful planning on our part, but a lovely coincidence nonetheless. The universe works in mysterious ways. 

On the drive to the trailhead, Ash’s queue included spot-on songs like “The Climb” (Miley Cyrus), “These Boots Are Made for Walkin’” (Nancy Sinatra), and “On the Run” from Steven Universe. We emerged from the vehicle, stretched, discussed, had a laugh, and began.

The giggles cease. This is no laughing matter. 

My notes from the hike:  

– Two miles in: The first mile was steep and a bit painful but not too bad. I’m trying to conserve water. My pack is heavy, and the hike is tough but manageable.

Lunch view, two miles through the hike

– We had to cross a creek to continue along the trail. Everyone made it across smoothly—except for yours truly. As you read this post to get a sense of my adventure, just know that my left hiking boot was completely soaked. By the end of the trip, it wasn’t so bad, but in the moment, it was unpleasant. Type 2 Fun?

– For the last mile, I daydreamed about my hip and shoulder bones turning to dust and floating away… then, at last…

We finished the six miles, set up camp, and ate dinner (my first Mountain House meal—fire!). The worst was behind me. Russell Lake was beautiful.

Russell Lake, featuring Mount Jefferson
Ash takes in the magnitude of Mount Jefferson (It’s big)

I plugged my phone into the portable charger, cracked open Silent Spring by Rachel Carson, and my phone stopped charging. With 89% battery left, I realized that was it for the rest of the trip. This would not be an issue considering the disciplined reality-supremacist that I am. I express gratitude that I am such an offline and present person. 2

I closed my book and tried to sleep.

Day Two

I slept terribly, but I wasn’t as cold as I expected, so that was a win. Ash and I exchanged thoughts on our sleep. I mentioned how comforting it was to hear Ash rustling around during the night because I knew I wasn’t alone in my insomniac misery. Ash didn’t share this sentiment and expressed their frustration when they noticed I had fallen asleep at one point while they hadn’t.

We performed four transects, searching for the endemic grass Calamagrostis breweri, collecting and mapping data points. The transects were located using GPS coordinates, UTMs, and photo comparisons from previous surveys. Rare plant monitoring like this helps track population changes and assess if human activity in Jefferson Park is harming the species. I asked Heidi if there were any noticeable difference when comparing the data to five and ten years ago, and she said the data has been inconsistent. She hopes that by coming out yearly in the future, we’ll see meaningful trends.  

Heidi using photos of past surveys to find the sites
Heidi and Michael working on the transects
Calamagrostis breweri, native to the mountains of northern California and Oregon

During the fourth transect, the temperature plummeted, clouds rolled in, and we retreated to camp for the night. I ate a macaroni Mountain House meal (not as fire…) and incited a conversation about Christmas trees. The crew preferred real pine trees, but I half-jokingly suggested leaving gifts outside under a tree to avoid cutting one down. This idea wasn’t popular, but such is the life of the free-thinker.

Dinner with Ella

After clocking out, Ash and I sat by the lake until it got too cold to bear, then returned to our tents to read and sleep.  

Day Three

The sleep was better than the night before, but still not great or like, even kinda decent or anything. It rained overnight, and when we woke up, it was COLD. We layered up, packed, made breakfast, and headed for Scout Lake.  

Ash (and if you look closely, Ella too) at the Jefferson Park sign on our hike out

Heidi told Ash and me that since we were leaving today (Heidi and Michael were undecided), we could scout for whitebark pine (Pinus albicaulis), mark the points, and head back to the Whitewater trailhead. We found a few points, but once my toes got soaked from the wet vegetation, the focus shifted to returning to our beloved truck, “Yappers.” 3  

There is no earthly explanation for what happened next: When we first hiked the trail (six miles, with elevation changes and heavy packs), it took us six hours. On the way back, carrying almost the same weight, though admittedly easier elevation-wise, it took us less than three. We agreed that we were motivated like dogs on treadmills chasing bacon—my bacon being Dr. Pepper, and Ash’s being Aquaphor for their chapped lips. Maybe that was the reason for the speed, but nobody really knows what happened that day…

Hiking and contemplating how much Dr. Pepper I am going to drink when I get back

We got to Yappers, and as soon as we hit the road, it started raining. Perhaps Mother Nature herself was guiding us towards Yappers faster to escape the precipitation. How kind she is. 

On the drive back to the ranger station, Ash was back on aux—featuring “Successful” (Ariana Grande), “It’s Over, Isn’t It?” from Steven Universe, and “Out of the Woods” (Taylor Swift). If Ash ever grows tired of environmentalism and botany, I propose a future career as an oddly specific playlist creator. 

Back at the apartment, we were reunited with our Dr. Pepper and Aquaphor. We unpacked, did laundry, showered, and I sat down with a salad and avocado, waiting for Ella to come home.  

1. You might be thinking, “Hey Katie, that’s not normal behavior,” and you know what? Maybe it isn’t. But I’ve got separation anxiety that is only comparable to that of a quarantine puppy, and I’ve made peace with it. So maybe you should too, you jerk.

2. This is a lie. I was very nervous, but it was fine.

3. Yappers is a very special truck, named for his tendency to yap (beep loudly and excessively) when objects are close by, which happens extremely often when driving down old forest roads, but we love him dearly.

August slipped away

The last month has flown by so quickly, it took a deep dive into my camera roll and a bit of soul searching in order for me to write this blog post. According to those things, the potential reason for my inability to remember is a) our midseason report forced us to spend time organizing data and writing which blended about a week into a foggy blur of cut tests and counting and b) that we have been seed collecting HARD. This month, and especially these final two weeks, many of our plants have started to seed and we’ve been doing our best not to miss them. We’ve collected onions, sedges, willowherb, buckwheats, stonecrop, and grasses. We’ve hiked down into bogs and up onto rocky outcrops for our seed. We were lucky to catch a couple cool weeks that brought with them a fervent anticipation for fall and the ability to wear the occasional sweater. Alas, it was just that classic Oregon late summer fake out, and the temperature has returned to the high eighties and nineties. The cool weather was accompanied by some rain and the fading of most of our nearby fires, though, so who could complain?

Ivy in Camp Creek on an Epilobium day

It’s been interesting to see how our attentions shift month to month as different plants start to flower and others senesce. There was a time when Delphinium and Ranunculus held my attention but they have long since been shunted to the side. Aquilegia is a distant, forgotten dream. We had a week or two where we collected so much Elymus that I saw it every time I closed my eyes, but we got enough so now Epilobium and Koeleria have taken its place, burned into my eyelids. Grindelia has started to flower and suddenly we see it everywhere. At the beginning of this job, I was worried about my ability to learn all the plants on our extensive list well enough to spot them in the field, but it hasn’t been hardly as challenging as I expected it to be. At any given time, there are about a dozen plants at the top of our list, so I’ve had no need to hold all of the seventy something species in my head. It’s a little bittersweet, how easily they come and go.

In other news, I’ve been listening to the Harry Potter audiobooks in the field and as we’ve been collecting lots of river-adjacent plants that grow alongside Canada mint, I’ve started to associate that menthol smell with Jim Dale’s Hagrid impression. I hear his voice in my head the moment I catch it in the air.

We now have 261 points in our scouting layer and 72 polygons. We’ve collected over 4 kilograms of seed spanning 26 different species. It’s been going well:)

Map of Malheur National Forest Collection. Blue points designate populations that have been collected from and red points designate populations not yet collected from.

Until next time,
Emma

Spooky Season: The End of UWC’s 2024 Field Season

As we wrap up the ending of our season, skeletons and pumpkins have begun showing up in neighborhoods and grocery stores. More relevantly, the cooler shorter days are causing rapid changes in chlorophyll production for deciduous trees adding to the spooky theme. Carotenoids – associated with yellow and orange, and Anthocyanins – reds and purples, are peak transition. Drives through the canyons, specifically Logan Canyon, have been breathtaking. The transition that aspens and maples make happens every fall but, never seems to get old.

At the tail end of our internship, we’ve completed our remaining Native Plant Material (NPM) harvests consisting of Agastache urticifolia (Horse Nettle), Asclepias syriaca (Milkweed), and Rudbeckia occidentalis (Western Coneflower) quickly followed by packaging and shipping them out to Couer d’Alene nursery. Our first time sending seed seemed to take all day but, as the season went on we quickly adapted and have been able to speed the process up so much so that it only take a few hours at most. We’ve come a long way to say the least.

Agastache urticifolia

In the last few weeks we’ve mostly worked from home to ensure we tie up any loose ends and end the season with a proper final report for both the CBG and FS crews. This consisted of reviewing our data and polygons via Field maps, editing our mid season write up, and computing basic stats – because agencies love their numbers. Numbers are imperative if we want to receive any kind of funding and continue doing what we’re doing. We’ve also been compiling and organizing all of the materials we’ve used and created in preparation for next seasons interns.

Being the first set in this forest has been both challenging and rewarding but, mostly the latter. We’ve truly accomplished so much in a short amount of time. I’ve learned what it means to be a botany technician, as well as what it takes to be a specialist grade botanist for the FS and what that career path may look like. The skills I’ve developed and experiences I’ve had while participating in this internship have already been added to my resume and will only help me take my next steps as a budding botanist. I’ve also learned a lot about federal agencies and would like to have the opportunity to officially work for one as I progress in my career despite it’s seemingly impenetrable hiring process.

We couldn’t of had the amazing season we did without the botany department and mentorship from UWC. Thanks to our mentor, we were able to work under the other botany technicians on multiple projects of varying sizes, learned how to create high quality federal resumes, and collaborate with many other FS departments among many other projects and skills.

Our final, larger scale task consisted of a teaching opportunity to a class of FS job corps students about the ins and outs of the seed collection crew. After creating our lesson plan and presenting, the following day, we acted as team leads and coordinated a large group for our final seed harvest. It was our biggest harvest yet, as we had 20+ people helping with collection. It was a fantastic way to end our NPM collections.

The wonderful thing about this position was that I was passionate about what I was doing. I’m fortunate to say that I loved what I did and what this work will mean for future restoration projects. I know I’ll look back on this internship with fond memories. Thank you for the amazing opportunity!

Last Day

Today is my last day as a CLM Seed Collection Intern, and my last day on the forest. To say I am feeling nostalgic would be an understatement. This job has been so fun and rewarding in so many ways! I could write on and on about the experiences that I had, and the things that I will miss the most, but I worry that there isn’t enough time in the world to do all of that. So instead, I comprised a few lists of the things I learned and the things I will miss the most. Enjoy.

Things I will miss:

  • First and foremost, MY CO-INTERN! I spent 40 hours a week with her all summer and never got sick of her. Hikes won’t feel the same without her!
  • Our truck. She was small, but sturdy- good ole’ reliable.
  • The forest. I feel like I know her better now, and she’s still as beautiful as ever to me.
  • Sunrises. I never knew what they looked like before this job (sleeping in will be nice though).
  • Plants, plants, plants. I can’t believe I got paid to hike all day and look at plants. Life is good.
  • My coworkers! FINALLY people who want to talk about plants all day long! They are my kind of people.
  • Lastly, feeling like I am making a difference. Restoration work is so important! I want my grandkids to be able to enjoy the great outdoors just like I have. Somebody needs to have the forest’s back, and if not us, then who?

My Favorite Experiences:

  • One of the first things we did was a drone survey of Maguire’s Primrose – a plant endemic to a 10 mile corridor on our forest. So dope.
  • All of the beautiful mountain lakes we hiked to!
  • Finding Lady Slippers – a rare orchid, in our forest. Who knew that orchids grew in non-tropical environments? Not me.
  • Beaver trapping. Those little guys are so cute!
  • Pesticide applications. ALL WEEDS MUST DIE (especially dyers woad).
  • Collaborating with the Weber Basin SOS crew, and finding the biggest mushroom known to man.
  • Completing my first large-scale botany survey – the North Zone Aspen Project.
  • Collecting Lomatium triternatum– one of our biggest populations, and in the most beautiful location too, on the very top of a mountain peak.
  • A mountain lake pesticide application to kill Eurasian Watermilfoil. We used the biggest drone I have ever seen!
  • Seeing all of the cute livestock doggos in the mountains.
  • Harvesting Milkweed. Go team monarchs!
  • Electrofishing. We caught 137 fish in 2 hours!
  • Teaching the Weber Basin Job Corp students all about seed collection, and then completing our biggest collection yet with them the next day. We got A LOT of Western Cone Flower seeds – over 45 bags!

Overall, this has been such a rewarding, and fun experience, and I have loved being a part of it!

Seeds Bring People Together

It’s hard to believe the last few months went by so quickly. I’m sitting here on my last day of work at the Eldorado, and I know that the hardest part of leaving will be saying bye to my crewmates. The tough thing about field work is making friends and having to leave them. The crew depends on each other for most of our social life, and by the end of five months we’ve become a little family-cooking together, sharing food, and supporting one another. We have developed little traditions like going to the farmer’s market every Wednesday and having movie nights on Tuesdays.

On a backpacking hitch to survey for the Cup Lake Draba

While the work of collecting and preserving seeds feels important and satisfying, it’s the people that make me love the work. The silly little languages we create together, and the many days of laughter in the truck make the field season an experience and not just a job. We’re there for each other when things are tough, and we celebrate our successes together.

Spacious vehicles 🙂

Spending so much time with some really special people has been a privilege and a joy. I know I’ve made some lifelong friends, and I’m excited to see where everyone’s lives take them after we depart for winter.

A little break from data entry

For my final blog of the season, I wanted to share some photos of the people that have made this summer so much better!

Puddle Clubs and Pollinators of the Prairie

August is here and the pollinators are in a frenzy for forage as fall inches closer!

This month, I took the time to become closely acquainted with the many different flying critters that could bee seen on the prairie. For the most part, the pollinators were not very hard to find as they could typically be found foraging on the pollen/nectar of the prairie wildflowers; however, there were a few exceptions with some of the bees as they would find interest in eating my lunch! 

Aside from foraging on prairie plants or my lunch, the general behavior and nesting habitat of a few of the pollinators were interesting to watch. During Robel Pole protocols with Harsha, Michelle, and the other CLM interns, we were greeted by a group of Pearl Crescents (Phyciodes tharos) and Eastern Tailed-Blues (Cupido comyntas) at a puddle. Until recently, I did not know that this behavior was called Puddle Clubbing. Essentially, puddle clubs are congregations of the same or different species of butterflies (mostly males) that gather around a source of water (sometimes large or measly), which typically contains essential minerals that the butterflies can obtain with their proboscis. The puddles can also serve as an area for males to display and compete for a female if one happens to fly by! 

A puddle club with Pearl Crescents and Eastern Tailed-Blues

Regarding nesting habitat, the two species of pollinators I observed (a Megachilid sp. and the Honeybee, Apis mellifera) were relatively intriguing, to say the least. The Megachilid (a leafcutter bee) is a resident of the bedrock pavements of the dolomite prairie that we observed while monitoring the Hispid False Mallow (Malvastrum hispidum). In this habitat, there can be little to no soil and the pavements can get relatively hot during the day, so it was impressive to see this species utilizing this area for a home! As interested in bees as I am, I took a closer look at the leaf cutter’s home by moving the rocks at the entrance of the nest to see see how deep it was. Shortly after displacing the rock, Ingrid from POC, Naomi, and I were greeted by a disoriented bee…sorry!

The Leafcutting Bee inspecting its reconstructed home in the Dolomite Pavement

As for the honeybees, we found them within an older building on the prairie while we were seed collecting/scouting. In this case, I was not surprised to stumble upon them here as I have found honeybees in similar structures before, but I was surprised to see exposed comb! It is not ideal for them to utilize the comb for storage or rearing their young, although this comb could serve a hidden purpose not seen by the observer!

The workers of the Western Honeybee (Apis mellifera)
A colony of Honeybees in an unusual spot!

With that, August on the prairie was filled with a plethora of pollinators that added to the fun of seed collecting! As fall slowly sets in, I hope to see many more flying/buzzing critters!

Final Update from the Beaverhead-Deerlodge

October has flown by as we come to the end of a fantastic field season. Looking back on the past few months makes this moment bittersweet.

Most of the projects that we have been working on have concluded for the field season, leaving the seed collection of a few straggler species left to end out the month. From here, there are just a few reports to finish writing and the field season will be complete!

My concluding thoughts on this field season are that I learned a lot about the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. Seed collection was a huge part of the job, but I was also given the opportunity to explore many different aspects of the forest. Among my favorite were the revegetation projects, Whitebark Pine and rare plant surveys, and the Lynx surveys. If nothing else, this field season has given me the opportunity to experience some amazing things…views, wildlife, plants, and people. As much as I loathe saying it, I’m going to miss my crew (I am not a people person, haha). The forest botanist Jessie Salix, and my crew leader Riley Crissman, as well as my CLM partner, Mikhaela Ferguson, have all had huge impacts on my life. Although Jessica Pessina and Alex Martin were not a part of the crew for the entire season, they greatly added to the fun and interesting group dynamic. I’m honestly grateful for them and the experience this season has provided me.

Left to Right: Riley, Joe, Mikhaela, Jessica, and Alex (Jessie Salix not pictured).

As always, a few of my favorite wildlife sightings have included some snakes, a porcupine, and a cow moose and her calf that sadly evaded my camera.

An adult male prairie rattlesnake who is unhappy to see me.
A juvenile prairie rattlesnake hanging out in a rock crevice.
Porcupine out on an afternoon walk!

Closing Time

It’s my last week on the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. Things are coming to a close very quickly, with finishing up on seed collections and the final report. With only four days left in Montana, I already feel like I miss it. I’m excited to go home and begin my new job, but I’ll miss the community I had built for myself in Dillon. After living here for nearly six months, it was really feeling like home. Considering that I had never even been to Montana before moving here, I definitely struck gold!

I also feel grateful to have worked with such an amazing crew at the Forest Service. Our mentor, Jessie, was so fundamental in giving us interns a well-rounded and engaging experience. I’ll miss going on camping trips with Riley, Joe, Jess, and Alex. I’ve saved my favorite photos from this season for this blogpost. Thank you for reading and keeping up with my posts!

One of many camping trips in Maxville. This one was with a crew from the Youth Employment Program.
Insect pinning following July Bee Blitz. Dillon, MT
The iconic hailstorm of the season. Maxville, MT. Pictured left to right: Joe, Riley, Mikhaela, Alex, Jess

P.S. Cat Update: I could never forget to include an update on Skateboard. She’s doing quite well! We found a campsite back home, so she won’t have to move out of the camper. She’s pretty excited about that. Plus, there will be lots of trees and new birds for her to look at. She’s been begging me to change the channel on her “TV” (the window) for a while now, so hopefully this helps.

Late Season Sweetness

I love the fall. Cooler nights and cold air trickling in through the window. I love leaving Hill City in the dark, driving to Rapid as the sun rises. The candy-striped sunrises. The moon following us on the drive.

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The cows wait for us in the morning light at our Cedar Pass field sight.
Bouteloua curtipendula (sideoats gramma) seed heads adorn the prairie.

In the prairie, the green is going. Everything is crunchy and sharp. My roomies and I are covered with little scratches from sweet clover stems and prairie dust. Overnight, like a field coming into a ghostly bloom, spider webs adorn the tops of dead standing stalks, or tunnel into the ground. The city of rodent and snake tunnels built into the litter layer is revealed, like a map of a tiny subway system. And we keep counting plants! Squinting even closer at their crispy, curled features, learning to identify them by their dying traits- Nasella viridula goes red on the stem. Bouteloua gracilis requires an intimate examination of multiple ligules.

The story of the prairie continues to reveal itself in the plants at this time of year. Which is, of course, exactly what we’re researching here. But it is striking to me that as everything fades into beige, the tiny shoots of green that persist, as well as the underground plant structures, have so much to tell us about how these grasses fared over the summer and how they are preparing for the time ahead. The grasses offer lessons to us as humans… How to conserve your resources through a hot summer, how to take advantage of late-season warmth, how to work together with your neighbors to survive the climate crisis.

Late season vine. Tribulus terrestris
Late season aster. Symphyotrichum falcatum.

I’m struck by the love present in our work. Returning to the same individual culms of grass every month since April. Recounting the same patch of grass 6 times over 6 months. Looking at plot maps and seeing every treatment that our team or last year’s team performed at this very spot. Scribbling our details, notes, and nuances in the margins for next year’s crew, so that they can continue to tell the story. How Jackie’s position allows her to bring seasonal techs together on this patch of South Dakota prairie to frolic and learn and record small parts of this great big tragic love story between the plants and the planet and the changing world.

An October to Remember

The final month of our field season and our time as interns for the Chicago Botanic Garden has finally arrived. I am both sad that this is the end of a great time that I’ve had in the field in Arizona but excited for the adventures that are next in store. Over the past few weeks, we did a final field trip day at Dude Creek, where we worked with Arizona Fish and Game and the Arizona Conservation Corps Tonto Crew to survey for riparian plants such as alders and sycamores. We also got to see a Gila trout and Chiricahua Leopard frog! We visited Globe for final collections and did some invasive/rare species monitoring near Payson. Currently, we are in the midst of closing up shop and sending our lovely seeds out to their next home in Santa Fe.

A Chiricahua Leopard Frog that we found at Dude Creek.